Who makes a good Torque wrench for doing the crank hub bolt 400 ft lbs?

Automan to the rescue

I got one of these from Bob and it solved all those hub problems.

Automan Crank Bolt Kit
This all steel crank bolt kit is used to solve the crank snout damage.

Use of this kit solves the crank hub from galling to the crankshaft snout on engines with dampeners or blower drives.

This Belleville washer design is made from chrome vanadium spring steel.

The 3/4-16 bolt is a grade L-9 hex head that is torqued up to 400 foot pounds.

The use of a flange head bolt does not allow the bolt to have proper torque stretch. The flange works like a frictional clutch, robbing some of the torque of the torque wrench from properly tightening and stretching the bolt.

This bolt and washer properly clamps the crank hub to the crank snout, eliminating the back and forth movement that galls the hub and snout together. This galling action makes it nearly impossible to remove the crank hub from the crank.

For use on standard 426 crank snouts, and spline snouts.

For spline snouts and outboard bearing supports, please call 530-308-8827 for needed information so you get the correct length crank bolt kit the first time.

The standard 426 kit comes with a standard 2″ long L-9 bolt and detailed instructions.

Longer bolts up to 6″ are available, and special length bolts are made as ordered, at additional cost.

Produced since 1996

$50.00 US D

$45.00 US D Racer Net

Checkout the Automan Torque Bars in the ‘Hand Tools’ page, for holding the crank hub when torquing the crank hub bolt.

Steve Christophersen

PS: I used a torque multiplier

 

This is what i always do as well, and my stuff is the old double keyway stuff. Also this is how we always do it on the TF car i worked on (splined stuff tho).

 

We did that too, except instead of resting the bar on the frame through the whole process we would torque it through the blower pulley with the breaker bar resting on the frame, then with the floor jack handle through the breaker bar on the bottom pulley one guy would hold the torque wrench steady in the blower pulley while someone else pulled up on the breaker bar/jack handle until the torque wrench popped.

Every time we did it I would bite my tongue waiting for a "SNAP..POW!" But it never happened.

And contrary to what another poster said, we never had a problem as the bolt was plenty tight. Make sure you put a LUBRICANT on the back side of the bolt head flange where it comes in contact with the hub or you'll get a false torque reading. In the words of someone a lot smarter than me..."Antiseize is not a lubricant."

 

Hi Dan, I have heard that but I just sold my blower so for the moment that is out. I just made a torque bar for the hub to rest on the frame so I guess I'll be using a breaker bar until I recoup some cash.

Thanks guys,
Trev