When to replace rods?

Mike, MGP calls them ProMod rod for the extra strength. A nicer quality rod you'll not find. He also use's the A-1 rod bolts in all applications.

Blessings..........Ron Clevenger.

 

Back in the old days when we used to make full passes (about to change) we put 25 runs on GRP rods. I felt like I was tossing out an old friend whenver I changed them.

A good rule of thumb is to change them one run before they break. Don Hudson told me that a long time ago (J/K).

RG

 

Mike at MGP was GRP. Lots of alcohol guys using them. Definately one to consider. We've used Brooks, GRP, & MGP.

 

Grp

I have heard and seen alot of issues with the GRP rods especially letting go on the big end. MGP, BROOKS, are really good. Sean

 

Thanks everyone for the replies. I have contacted GRP, MGP and R&R rods...
just need to make my choice.

If only some smart young wiz kid could invent a tool or inspection process that predicted rod failure....now theres an opportunity...

Regards
Dave

 

I'd like to know who said what and what you've seen about GRP's. Jay runs GRP's and I don't hear any complaints from JR, and they run them plenty hard.

 

grp

I for one will not run them to many issues. We had one break on a fresh start up. I can name 9 pro mod racers that will not run them but it is not my place to put there names on here. Sean

 

Checking rods

Is there a way you could ping your rods? We used to have a pinger in the shop Im not sure of the correct name for the tool but it looked like a spring loaded pen it would give a reading then you would look in the book and it would give you the rockwell hardness of the metal, just a thought.

 

Many many issues here. Some are egg shaping and pulling the little end of the rod off. Some are hammering the cap off. This is how we checked. Screw the rod bolt in 10 turns and measure how much the bolt moves. Then do it on another rod. They seemed to be quite different in the same set! To get around this a bolt stretch gauge should be used. We have seen 100 lbs to get he proper stretch. Some places like MGP check this from the factory. GRP does contingency money so many are getting GRPs cheaper. We have run well with them all.

 

Any of you guys heard of Ridgecrest Rods?.
Australian manufacturer of billet rods. That's whose rods Ive been using for a while now. They are a nice rod. A$1500 set, so thats about US$1200 at todays exchange rate. Similar to MGP prices.
R&R were about $960
GRP were about $1060

http://www.ridgecrest.com.au/

I can recomend them if your ever looking for an alternative to USA made rods

Main reason I was asking about which brand to use, was due to cost. Our Aussie dollar is real strong against the USD right now, so it makes buying rods out of USA more attractive.

 

The first post mentioned a 7sec digger. If thats all you are going to run thats alot different than 5sec cars. When I ran a 7.50 f/c we would get 200 passes on them. the guys still do. It is only making 900-1100hp. speed costs!

 

Just bought 3 sets of MGPs for 950 a set. One of the nicest rods you will see.

 

7 seconds

Hi Mark6052,
Your right, Im not running a 5s T/A.
Its a Nostalgia FED. Motor is an Arias Hemi Chevy and we run 7.1 at 191 (small blower, skinny tires)
Only buzz the motor to 8500rpm
11/1 compression, 25lbs boost.

Hoping to squeese a 6.90 out of it...

Cheers, from down under.

 

It all depends on how hard you push them. We ran the last two years on the same set of GRP's, over 300 passes of bracket racing(mostly 1/4 passes, few 1/8) and not a problem. 441 ci sbc, 782hp with no power adder. Ran 7.35 cranked up, 7.50's shifting early,all under 7500 rpm. Going to blower this year so we are buying a new set and no we will not make that many passes on them. Its going to be hard to throw them away after 40 passes!