Wheelie bar question???

Discussion in 'PSI Superchargers Tech Questions' started by Flyboy68, Mar 26, 2006.

  1. wildride boy

    wildride boy Top Sportsman Racer

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    I agree with some guys , your 2.60 first ratio coupled with 4.11 gear and small tire are a big part of your problem . you have too much torque on the tire to deal with. ratio from 1.80 to 2.11 will work much better.
    Claude
     
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  2. 200on10.5

    200on10.5 New Member

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    Yes loosen it up. You may want to install some lighter front springs and preload them for a faster transfer. Like everyone says your first gear is alittle steep. If you cant afford a gear change then lower the thrust by lowering the input torque. Fatten that puppy up! Install a pinch valve and kill the power off the line. When it gets up on the tire open the valve to lean it. It will 60 better than the lower gear BUT( unless this is a 4 speed ) when you shift into second you will lose a lot of rpm because the ratios are so far apart. So that should give you initial hook and enough transfer to get you going without breaking the bank.More later.
     
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  3. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    I am a little confused as why you want to loosen up the front. After the hit on the wheelie bar he lifts and carries the front now. If he does what is being said for more weight transfer he is going to have more problems with the wheelie bar. Maybe I am misunderstanding what you are trying to do.
     
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  4. 200on10.5

    200on10.5 New Member

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    I see nothing about wheelstands being a problem, Perhaps the interpretation is wrong. Need more info flyboy68.
     
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  5. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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  6. Flyboy68

    Flyboy68 Member

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    200on10.5 there might be a little confusion. I've studied my videos a bunch of times and some how the wheelie bar is hitting the ground way before any "real" movement of the chassis or front end. It worked better when we limited the front end to only 2-3in travel, 60s didn't show it but the launch seemed to be smoother.

    Mike I will try to email you that video tonight, and you can let us know what you think. I don't have a lot of "good views" but one shot shows everything pretty well. I'll get it uploaded and send it to you.

    One more thing, this year i'm running the digital 7 7530T so i'll be able to create a launch timing curve. I think this will help, yet I don't want to kill my 60s...even though they haven't been awesome. Best was 1.28 spinning badly (though no hop on launch), when I hook somewhat (with the typical hop) consistant 1.30 1.31's. Way too slow for my class...
     
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    Last edited: Mar 29, 2006
  7. wildride boy

    wildride boy Top Sportsman Racer

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    What is your best time and mph with this car
    Claude
     
    #27
  8. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    Both Zar of Zartech Chassis fame and I viewed the video and it helped a lot. It would have been better if I had also seen a clip from the side or the rear quarter but it showed enough. I played it back in half speed in a loop so I watched in for about ten times. Yes, your wheelie bar hits the ground before the car actually moves. I believe that this is caused by some problem in the ladder bar setup that is causing your rear axle to wrap up or what some call pinion wrap and then when the wrap comes to the stop it kicks the car up and forward and at this point will probably give you wheel hop. There is zero separation on launch between the tires and the body so I would also say that either the rear suspension is in a bind or the rebound or extension of the shocks is way too tight but this is hard to tell until you stop that pinion windup problem. The tires are not crushing too much even at that low pressure you are running but that is because you are not planting the tires hard enough yet and that is causing a traction problem.

    Do you have coil over springs or leaf springs on the rear? If leaf springs then are you using housing floaters to attach them to the rear axle? You should be.

    What pinion angle do you have set in the car right now?

    What brand ladder bars are they and who installed them?

    What width rear rims are you using?

    You should have the wheelie bar 12” off the ground to allow the suspension to work before it hits the ground. There is no point in doing that now until you stop that axle wrap.

    With the car set up right now the front end lift is a little high but you may have a hard time stopping that especially if you plant the tires harder.

    The car is wasting a lot of energy in that spring/pinion wrap up and in that leap forward. Your 60 foots should improve when you figure out the spring /ladder bar problem. Where are you located in the US?
     
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  9. Flyboy68

    Flyboy68 Member

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    Wildride- Best ET was 8.59 @ 158

    Mike i'm using coil over springs (i believe rated at 180lbs?) Strange dual adjustable shocks. Pinion angle is down about 2 degrees. We're using ladder bars made by chassis engineering, they have the adjustment (turn for lengthening and shortening) on the bottom bar. We had to cut about 2" inches off them for fitting purposes (total length is about 31"). The rims are 12" wide in the video, however i'm going to 14" wide this year. Axles are 33 spline moser's.

    My dad is the one who built the chassis, it was not built by a professional (sorry dad). He and I will be the first to tell you that we are not chassis guys. The chassis has been squared off several times, it's straight, not to say that it's right though.

    We are located in Wichita, Ks.
     
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  10. wildride boy

    wildride boy Top Sportsman Racer

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    What tire size are you planning to mount on your 14" wheels.
    Claude
     
    #30
  11. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    I again have talked it over with Zartech Chassis and based on what we have seen in the video and what you have told us and providing your Dad has installed the ladder bars close to correct this is what we recommend.

    First you have way too much spring in the back if they are 180’s. You need 125-130’s cranked up on the spanner to get stored energy to help with separation on launch. 125 is preferred. You also need to move the pinion angle to a negative 4* to try and help that wrap up. You may need a couple of more degrees than that but -4* is good for now. Right now you are probably going positive on the angle on launch.

    Keep the front end travel limited to 2” to keep the front down.

    On the rear shocks start out with the rebound (extension) two back from full tight and set the compression (bump) at 4 clicks from full soft. This is for small greasy bumpy tracks. These shocks are sensitive to adjustment so only adjust one click at a time to try and find the sweet spot.

    I am changing my mind on the tire pressures and you should stay with the 10 psi with those rims.

    When all is setup set the wheelie bar height to 12”

    This setup should help the suspension work and plant the tires through the body to frame separation. Your 2.60 gear is still way too much but maybe this will make it better.

    What is the distance from the front ladder bar bolt to the ground?
     
    #31
  12. Flyboy68

    Flyboy68 Member

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    33x10.5x15w M/T slicks
     
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  13. wildride boy

    wildride boy Top Sportsman Racer

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    sorry Fly Boy , i'm not familiar with 10.5 " class , what are the advantage to put 10.5" tire on 14"" rims.
     
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  14. Flyboy68

    Flyboy68 Member

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    wildride boy-no problem, they put those tires on 14" rims to stretch the sidewall out enough to actually use the sidewall as tread. Basically manipulating the tire, and it's usually worth about 1" more tread. Most guys in that class who do that have about 12-12.5" tread on the ground, which is a lot of gain from about 11" (approx. treadwidth on a 10.5w tire) when you're in a "tire size limited" class. You should use beadlocks so the tire doesn't want to come off the rim at high mph, but most just double up on the rim screws. Kind of crazy really.

    Mike-The distance from the front ladder bar bolt to the ground is roughly 6". We acutally ordered a shaft for the lenco that links two of the sections together in order to eliminate one gear. That way you don't have to do any drive shaft work. So i'll be getting rid of the 2.60 first gear. We'll go with a 2.04 or 2.08 first gear, we could go even lower than that. That'll help calm it down a little. Now on the shocks, do you recommend loosening the rebound one click at a time if those settings don't initially work? Or tightening? I'm sure you mean loosen, just making sure. As far as compression what characteristics am I looking for before I adjust the compression side?

    Also on the wheelie bar, should I stay at 62" and raise it to 12"? They're pretty weak wheelie bars, we've actually got material for making stronger ones. We thought maybe going longer though. Basically just asking 12" height to what length you think?

    If it's okay i'd like to take some pictures of the chassis and send them to you tonight Mike.
     
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    Last edited: Mar 30, 2006
  15. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    If the track is smooth or the car is not dancing over the bumps then you can tighten the compression one click and try it again. regardless I wouldn't go more than one click over the half way point.

    I would recommend a dual wheel wheelie bar so you can steer the car by the height stagger if required while the font wheels are off the ground. A longer wheelie bar would give you some flex so it wouldn't hit the bar so hard.

    Yea, send be pictures especially the ladder bar and and rear shock area.
     
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  16. outlaw10.5

    outlaw10.5 New Member

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    You have several items to check and run down

    You have several items to check and run down. I ran an old school ladder bar backhalf on 10.5s @ 3200lbs eventually got it down to 1.16 60' with a 632 on spray. 1. a ladder bar will react differently as to how it hits the bars vs. a 4 link. I would be able to smack the bars before the nose rose up. the short IC, chassis lift and compression of the tire sidewall was enough to slap the bars. (some of the side videos looked like the tire was crushed enough for the right rim to touch the track, even @ 11lbs of pressure - no beadlocks). 2. make the front suspension as stiff as possible and you may get to the point that you will set the limiters for 0" travel or preload the limiters (be careful here). 3. Make sure that the rear coil overs are adjusted correctly I used the Strange pro mod special valving and still set them 2 click from full stiff on both bump & rebound. 4. the 2.60 1st gear is killing you, I ran a 1.66 glide with a loose converter and went to a 3.89 rear gear to calm the launch. 5. Don't be afraid to take timing out of the motor to get it to launch (I realize that you have a blown alky car, but Oddy has been suggesting that removing up to 15* of timing is OK @ launch, and it has fixed two other blown 10.5 cars in the area that spent all of 2005 either annihilating tires or wheelstanding up on the bars).
    hope this helps
     
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  17. Flyboy68

    Flyboy68 Member

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    Hey outlaw 10.5 thanks for the info! I do plan on limiting the front travel, and this year i'm running a digital programmable 7 box so i'll be able to create a launch timing curve to calm it down. I'm going to a 3 sp (eliminating one gear on the lenco) so i'll have a 2.04 first gear instead of the 2.60. Thanks again to all you guys for the help! I really appreciate it...

    Josh
     
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