What breaks the second ring ?

not if you was on the wrong side of the pump you may now have enough fuel to kill it but not enough to be rich as you think as you are still too lean
really hard to explain

 

lean

make sure the barrel valve isnt closing when almost wide open
on mine if you put the link in the outer hole it will go closed at
wide open throttle
this makes it rich early and lean at wot
too long of a link and splines off will do it too
but thats my enderle nitro bv
i dont know on a wipple but ive seen this on 2 cars
and most people dont know how to check it or fix it
do you have a flow meter or pressure after barrel valve
you know who mr left lane
duane

 

hey there left lane whats up ? i went all through the jets last night and flowed them we have tinkered with them from time to time and have some changed considerably from the original tune up so i am going to go back to the get go and start over

 

I'm with Will....I'd make a big move to richen it up and see if you have been very lean and didn't know it. Maybe you just richened it into trouble. Hard to push bearings if its in this condition in my experience. It must have other indicators though. Maybe loose intake and header bolts.....
Dale

 

How are you installing the pistons in the motor
are you using a tapered or band style compressor
one thing i have noticed with the tapered one and some of the second rings
they seem to have a larger dia when new than before
so if you dont get them centered very good in the tapered comp. and the ring groove you can break them when the ring transitions from the comp. into the sleeve

 

rich idle

with the over rich idle, do you have spring checks in some of the hat nozzles, maybe they have been left out to cause the rich idle, we used to only use 4 nozzles in the top of the whipple at idle and the rest in on the hit. You will need to look at your fuel pressure if you intend to swap from the top of the blower to the ports.

Clarky

 

It worked !!!!!

well i guess the answer was it was just too rich for its own good in the wrong spots we went back to the original tune up and by the way my feelinngs now on jets are if they flow close to the number with what ever you have to flow them with it will be good enough to start with we ran all weekend with no fuel issues and had perfect looking plugs with off the shelf jets from wizards warehouse now i am not saying that it went as fast as it could but it was safe and fast enough to take the win so now i have a baseline to go back to now i have another question even with new bolts about every 6-8 passes this thing breaks a couple of lower blower pulley bolts any ideas on this ? it seems to shear them off between the pulley and the hub

 

That doesnt sound good... What kind of bolts are you using, what do you tighten them too?

 

Call JR at RBS and get the correct bolts for the bottom pulley
there is a difference

 

we got what was suppost to be the correct ones and they had a shoulder on the upper part and they still broke, we use a flat washer under the bolts but a guy at the track had a star looking deal that went under all of them at once do i need to get one of these or is washers ok ?

 

Does the center hole in the pulley fit snug onto the crank hub or is there some play ??? There should be very little clearance there if there's alot or the pulley or the crank hub have been "clearanced" try a new pulley first to check the fit .

Also double check the overall length and the shoulder length of the bolts and make sure that the shoulder isn't bottoming out in the hub before the bolt is clamping the pulley tightly and that the end of the bolt isn't going through the hub and hitting the crank seal area ---

Another thing is the "right" bolts also need the proper washers which have a bevel on one side of the through hole which mates up to provide clearance around the head of the bolt as it has a large radius under the head.

The one piece washers are good, RCD sells them. They also sell the NAS bolts with the proper grip length.