puke tank

how expensive would it be to turn my 4 gal. fuel tank into a puke tank?heres what i think needs done..add baffles to inside tank...put 2 #12AN fittings on tank for burn down lines...install fitting[where fill cap is now]for a clamp on breather[like open elment k&n breather used on valve covers???]looking for bids on this..

don
775-401-6551

 

Fuel to puke tank

What did the tank cost you to start with. All the things you listed would be fairly easy to do, because they are basically just adding fittings to the outside of the tank. My one question is, why do you feel you need a baffel in a puke tank? Are you going to be scavenging oil out with a dry sump system? Adding a baffel will mean opening the tank somewhat to add the baffel then welding it closed again, not needed IMO, if this is just a puke tank you drain after every run.

Corey

 

tank didn't cost me anything..it was on car when i got it..the builder was going to run a NA sbc on gas so didn't need bigger then 4 gal tank..i'm going to have a 540bbc blown alcohol injected eng so i need bigger tank so thought this fuel tank would make nice puke tank...i don't know if baffles are needed or not..just been reading other topics on puke tank and noticed they kept bring up baffled puke tanks..if i don't need baffles then yes it would be simple and have a friend in town that could tig it for me..he just didn't know how and where to put baffles..would i need a breather on tank to let cc pressure out?

 

I run the exact same engine you do and all I use is a pair of round tanks I built and mount them to the motor plate. They are around 2 1/2 ltrs each, welded in a 1 1/4 inlet tube from the valve covers burn downs and put in a K/N breather on top. Put a 1/2" pipe drain on the bottom. I didn't put anything in mine, just wide open. Never have leaked a drop or anything from the breathers.

Absolutly no engineering went into these things and they work great, I don't think you will need any baffles. I would however use the same size breather vent size as the two inlets combined or just put two breathers in. Just so you don't pressurize the tank.

Keep it simple

my 2 cents
Corey

 

THANKS;;;;i like simple..

 

Don't know what class you are planning to run in or which "HRA" but NHRA requires baffled puke tanks and some classes require minimum size hose and connector id.

 

not running any classes..going to be racing with WESTERN FUEL ALTEREDS RACING ASSC..they go to different track and only race against each other..guess it's called exhibition races..and doing some exhibition runs at small local outlaw type tracks..

 

Let me just say, put a baffle in it and run the bigger tank. and run it to the back. it can go through the chassis tubes. There is a reason why NHRA requires it. If you hurt a cyl. Those small breather tanks will not hold alot of oil. plus I really don't think you want to drive over all that mess. The outcome may not be pretty. I really don't think people understand the theory of it. That is why they call it a PUKE tank. not a breather tank. Don

 

I'm open for all idea's, I'm still curious about the "baffle" what is it baffleing and where does it usally reside inside a tank? If I have been breaking any rules I may need to build couple of new tanks myself. May as well build a proper design.

Corey

 

My puke tank has baffles to separate the inlet tubes from the breathers and is also baffled to keep sloshing oil from spilling.

The baffles should restrict flow from inlet to breather and from oil moving around.

 

AGREE with you Corey;;love to see some drawings of baffle locations;;i'd like to build it correct first time and be safe..i feel just putting baffles in ar random isn't going to work..like was said.need to baffle so oil coming in at inlets don't splash up in breathers and baffles to prevent oil in tank from sloshing around makes very good sense..now if could see pics/drawings at just where they need to be and how far away and everything else ;;;i hope i never fill up with oil[because of something breaking but sometime it's going to happen[it's a race car//they break parts;;lol]i don't want to oil track down and maybe hurt myself or the guy in other lane beside me for sure..i don't want to be the one that looses control of my car and slide into competers car because i didn't build correct puke tank..

 

Think back to a basic breather on an everyday engine (old school). It's not a straight shot out.
The idea is that you make it a hard road for the bulk of the oil to get out. A box with one inlet and one outlet will just blow the oil straight through.

Now....a box with 2 or more baffles that forces the air/oil mess to turn 2 or more corners before reaching the breather will work. The air goes out, perhaps with a small mist, but the heavier liquid portion of the oil drops to the bottom of the tank.
A Maze comes to mind as the best visual explanation.

Dave Koehler
http://www.koehlerinjection.com

 

Since we are on the subject, seems Hotrod's tank has enough volume @ 4 gallons well over 12 ltrs. Mine are a combined volume of only around 5-6 ltrs over two tanks.

My question is, is it wise to match the puke tank volume to your engine oil volume. Will a situation ever happen that dumps virtually all the oil into the tank?

I have limited space, but I can make them a bit larger. 12 -14 ltrs may be a bit dicey.

Corey

 

There are many ways to do this that will work. Think of making a maze from the inlet to the outlets of the tank. You do not want an easy/straight path for the oil to blow through from the inlets to the outlets. You need to slow it down and make the oil seek its way out. You want a plate or maybe a couple to break the flow and make a curvy path for the oil to have to travel to get out. This will not matter if the tank is too small and is full.

Does anybody use the plastic mesh in their tank? I think that might be a good addition to the baffles.


Disclaimer. I am not a flow/aero dynamics expert.

Now if you can get Miss Frizzle to take the magic school bus on a Race Car PUKE TANK field trip, then you will know for sure.

Rusty Kramer