Pro Mag 20 to 8973 w/o crank trigger connection...

I concur. I'll take the time and do it.

On to the next step of things, since it's hooked up. Right now it's simply functioning as a tach output and rev limiter.

Here's the manual: http://www.msdpromag.com/pdf/8973_frm25079.pdf

As was already stated, I plan on using the violet/blue wire to fire the air shifter.

My next question would be as to how the main reset Dark Blue wire works.


"This is the main reset wire for several features of the Controller. When
12 volts are applied to this wire it will activate the Launch Rev Limit. It
will also activate the Launch Retard value and the Launch Curve.

It will also reset the following programmable features:
Shift Light Sequence will go to first gear.
The Time Retard Curve timer will reset to 0.0 seconds.
The Time Switch timer will reset to 0.0 seconds."

I have my line lock/t-brake working via one momentary switch. I have a dual relay that I use to activate the t-brake. Turning on a switch on the panel powers the first relay, which then gives power to the second relay. The momentary button is then used to trigger the second relay to fire the t-brake.

I would have to think that in a clutch car, a momentary switch would be hooked up to the clutch pedal, and when the clutch pedal is pressed, it resets the 8973 to first gear.

I guess my question is this... If I hook up the Dark Blue wire to the line lock, it will see 12V continuous until I release the line lock. Does the 12V have to be disengaged before the 8973 will fire the 2nd/3rd gear shifts?

I could hook it to the t-brake, but then that leaves me in the dark as to how the 8973 would know when to reset for the burnout.

 

Mike;

No plans on using the burnout limiter as of current. I guess, however, that I could hook a toggle switch up to that wire specifically for burnout. Would suck, however, to forget to turn it off, lol.

Over the years I've gotten really good with my right foot. Managed to not over rev the last motor, using a Super Mag 3 with no limiter at all.

Is there a means of electrically creating a single 'pulse' to the dark blue wire when I activate the line lock?

This would allow the auto reset of the dark blue wire each time the line lock is fired. I use the line lock for burnouts as well as keeping any movement at all from occuring while on the t-brake.

 

Actually...

If I had a pulse on the line lock side, it would simply reset the timers/shift stuff.

If I hooked up full 12V once the t-brake is active, the 2-step would work just fine.

Again, I think this can be done if I can figure out how to simply pulse the Dark Blue wire when I press the line lock button.

 

Pulling timing with pink, dark brown, tan

Mike,

I have used this trick (pulling 5 with the pink) on nitrous motors in the past to change base timing with the digital seven.

However on these motors I was pulling 15 with the cranking retard so the extra 5 that was in the motor during during cranking was more than offset by the 15 being pulled. It seems that since you can not use the cranking retard that you would not want to put another 5 on the base timing that will not be removed untill you exceed the 800 rpm or whatever minimum rpm you set the the 8973 at. In addition you would be adding 5 degrees of rotor misalignment to whatever amount you are pulling with the 8973 during the run. Maybe I am missing something.

Another trick I used in 10.5 with the early boxs without slew rate was to mount a button on the wheel and use it to pull a preset amount of timing usually around 5 whenever I detected wheel spin during a run, this way the nitrous would not be turned off by the full throttle switch like it would if you lifted.

 

Ok, let me explain the way it's wired...

From fused 10A to momentary switch on shifter.

Momentary switch splits off to line lock and t-brake.

Line lock is hot with the button all the time.

T-brake is only hot when powered from switch on panel.

I want the single 12V 'pulse' on the line lock to trip the reset circuit on the dark blue wire.

I want continuous 12V when the t-brake is active to reset the box and activate the 2-step.

That make it a bit more clear?

Yes, I could skip the line lock 'pulse' and simply put a reset button on the dash. But, that adds just another thing to remember in the staging process. I prefer as much automation as I can get.

 

And if I'm not driving? Then I have to remember to tell the driver to hit it. I want it automated.

I found what I need: http://www.airotronics.com/site/product-singleshot_TH3P.php

Waiting on pricing now.