NGK Plug question

Is there a 5/8 version of the NGK R6061-10 ??

 

Not that I can find, but if you do, let us know. And my age old question, what is different about that plug that it supposedly makes more power?

 

How do you gap the 6061-10 with the short ground strap ?

 

Mike, would you run a R5671-10 in a correctly tuned screw blower application?

Tom

 

plugs

I thought Drazy said the 6061 had more margin before preignition. Darren Mayer said the 5671 reads a little differently but will work. We always ran the 5671 with a roots and don't plan on running the screw lean enough to worry about minute differences.

HUGE price difference between the two.

 

Yeah, my concern was the price difference. If I can run the 5671 I will but don't want to kill the motor getting it tuned. Right now with the C screw on a BBC at 92 over, 1 and 2 are stone cold while 3 and 4 are a little warmer. 5 and 6 are just starting to show heat and 7 and 8 are at the first thread. These are on 60 ft runs. I know this is a plug thread but I have run into tire shake so I can't get a consistent run and am tired of using up these expensive plugs to test. I was thinking of lowering the port nozzle size on the front cylinders which should bring up the fuel to the back and even it out. They are currently pretty much the same as the 92 over PSI recommendation but again this is a BBC and not a Hemi. The fronts are lower now in size and I'm concerned if I lean them too much, they will be lean later in the run. Open to suggestions. Thanks.

Tom

 

chevy

Tom I have a d rotor chevy and i'm getting ready to test next weekend. I'd love to bounce ideas off you.
Mike Bruns 316-259-3883

 

I'll double check the EGT's when I get to my other computer and I'll post them. Mike, are you saying that I'll have shake because the low speed lean out is on? ("Also you will have problems with tire shake with this Low Speed Lean out because you will be down on power.") Thought when it is on it will be lean and give me back more power, on the low end that is? Right now I have the area of a .057 jet pulled out by two solenoids at .4 into the run and I have 14 degrees taken out and ramp it back in at .5 after the luanch. I've got too much wheel speed at .3 - .4 into the run as it starts to snap the tires up then spins and smokes them and then goes into shake. This is before the leanout comes in or the timing is back Have half the area of the .057 going back in at the 1-2 shift.


Tom

 

Have a driveshaft speed of 3600-3800 at .5 with the accompanying smoke. With the previous combo had about 2400-2500 at .5 with no issues.

Been having weird EGT's on idle, #2 and #3 are way low, around 150 -200 and # 4 is about 250 and #3 is about 400. (not sure if it’s the manifold design, BBC Indy with the mods in the back for a screw or if it’s just the tune) The rest are about 860 and these are about 900-975 at 1 second in. The low ones come up some but are still way low.

The car idles great at 1500-1600 and has great throttle response. Ran it at 78% on the barrel but the head temps were way high at 230 at idle and stage. Went to 82% and that brought them down to about 195 - 200.

I'm running 35 total (BBC conventional head and what I ran with the Roots for three years) but taking out 14 at the hit and ramping it back in at .5. The problem I'm having is that I'm smoking the tires before the timing is coming back in and before I open the low speed lean out which should give me the lowest power. I'm thinking about going to 30 degree total and pulling out 14.

The only thing that really bothers me about this is that at less than 60 ft I’m getting the rear plugs colored down to the 1st thread and the EGT’s are not over 1000 Not sure if that is because of a reaction delay in the EGT probes?

Fuel pressure is 8LBS at stage (converter with trans-brake) with a 5 LB check for the dribblers, 20 LB idle check and 25 LB main check (Gorr Block).

 

Thanks Britt.


Tom