New to Front Engine Dragster

Discussion in 'PSI Superchargers Tech Questions' started by nitroscott, May 31, 2012.

  1. badfast

    badfast Member

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    Call Frank Parks@ Neil and Parks racecars. They keep bends in stock for rollcages, especially for FED cars. They live and breathe FED so he can get u fixed up.

    Neal
     
    #21
  2. chutedragger

    chutedragger Member

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    Untill you can get into a clutch deal....run a VERY low stall speed. 2500-3500 rpm! Anything higher is going to be so violent at the hit (any kind of hit) the car will shock the tire so hard hit wont be able to stay up on the tire and big time tire shake is a coming! The car will jump and wheelie, and if you haven't red lite, you will be pedaling trying to not hit the the 5 (because they are so blurry!!) 330' pylons. The car should actually run faster through the 60', with this technique.... Use the stall converter as a clutch function. Dont get up on the stall....start from the idle (or slightly above) and then let the brake go as you stand on the throttle.

    Stall converter are not adjustable....thus my input.
     
    #22
  3. Stephen McClain

    Stephen McClain New Member

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    Who is your cousin ?

    I know the guys from Garrettsville. Who is your cousin, Jim, Woody, Tim ?
    What part of the country are you from ?
    Thanks
    Stephen McClain
     
    #23
  4. NITRO MAS

    NITRO MAS Member

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    I have been watching this thread and decided its time to chime in. I built a competition coupe last year to the latest top fuel spec but at 150". Engine combo 505 ci chevy injected with 60%-80% with a mikes glide behind it. Converter stall 3100 with 3.50 gears and a 33"x12" tire. First off let me say there is nothing like the feeling you get the first time you open the pump and hear your car cackle. Its a drug!!

    Getting the thing set up correctly is a bitch. I talked with Spud a lot in setting up this combo and in hindsight should have sent everything to him to have an actual flow instead of calculated numbers.

    My first engine spun a bearing so I rebuilt the bottom end and found a crack in one of the cam mains so replaced the block with a dart Big M and rebuilt the bottom end.

    Second engine broke a rod on the stand warming it up. Detonation is a bitch but it could have been worse.

    Third engine and new rods and pistons head out to the march meet. The plan was to back everything off and run soft for the NE 1 Class. It was definately a slow pig and think the heavier rotating mass of larger rods attributed to this but I qualified. On the last qualifier I dropped #7 intake due to a retainer letting go and lost everything. Things would have broke anyway but nitro makes the destruction 100% worse. Had a big hole in the block at #8 and when I dropped the pan I found rods, caps, lifters, push rods, 2 pieces of my cam (more like sections) and lots of other bits and pieces.

    I had always run blown alcohol but wanted to do something different but now am contemplating whether or not to put the blower back on it as soon as my wallet recovers.
     
    #24
  5. nitroscott

    nitroscott Member

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    Good Info

    I like the idea softening up the torque converter by not allowing the RPM's from going up so high. The one I have now I found out is a PTC 5500. I have contacted PTC and they said send it back and they will reduce the stall. My gear is 411, can I get by with that? I used to run a 2 stage slipper cluctch on the Harley and I wish I could run one again on this FED, but I have been checking prices on them way to high for my budget.

    Nitro Mas You have learned the hard way like me. Sorry to hear you have had so much grief. I do appreciate all of the feedback, because I consider myself a rookie all over again.
    I am going to run this thing on Alchy first and get it running good.
    I will be running 12-13" slick. I havnt decided which one yet, because the wheels I have are 14" Welds which are considered to be on the big side for a 12" tire.
    Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks
     
    #25
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2012
  6. nitroscott

    nitroscott Member

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    Stephen

    Hey, how are you? I have heard of you guys for years. Jim (Huey) and Diane are my cousins. I have been hearing stories of you all racing your TF FED's together. Every time I would see Jim he would say sell the Harley and get on four wheels. I finally listened but I am way to far away to get advice. Waiting on the rest of the parts to come in. Mostly waiting on bends.
    The table should be done by tom. It might not keep up with my fellow FED's but it will look good. Thanks
     
    #26
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2012
  7. nitroscott

    nitroscott Member

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    Tungsten Diameter

    I know, that you know, that I dont have the chromemoly yet but I wanted to ask a couple welding questions. I am pretty good at TIG but it is very seldom that I dont have to grind a weld and the rule book says "no grinding of welds". How does the welder achieve this 100% no Grind rule? Do they use 1/16" tungsten, hang the tungsten way out, turn the gas up, Im really curious? I will be using a scratch start TIG. Thanks
     
    #27
  8. NITRO MAS

    NITRO MAS Member

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    PRACTICE!!!

    Actually you said it all with turning up the gas and extra length on the tungsten. Its easier with a pedal so you can control the heat but I have also used scratch start
     
    #28
  9. nitroscott

    nitroscott Member

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    Still Thinkin'

    Is using 1/16" tungsten worth using or is it a waste because it burns up to quick. I can go get some 1/16" if it will help me. I know the key is tight fit. I have a brand new tubing notcher so hopefully that part will be easy. I still have to figure out how I will hold the shoulder hoop in place while I tack it into place. I was going to start at the bottom butt hoop and build to the motor plate then do the uprights to the shoulder hoop. I have a blueprint, video and alignment bar coming from the nice people at Mark Williams.
     
    #29
  10. Dave Koehler

    Dave Koehler Member

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    Uhh, one momento.
    I say that you better start the chassis from the rear end axle and pinion centerlines. Everything keys off of those.

    3/32 tungsten.

    Dave Koehler
    http://www.koehlerinjection.com
     
    #30
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2012
  11. nitroscott

    nitroscott Member

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    Dave, I just cant picture it yet. But I guess I will put the alignment bar in the dummy motor, bolt the motor plates to the motor the slide the alignment bar in the rear and set it all in the jig. One of the things I cant figure out is how much gap for the Powerglide, Should I use a shaft to connect the motor and trans I already have the rear coupler. If I use a shaft it sounds like I dont have to be perfect but I do have to round it off to the nearest inch.
     
    #31
  12. NITRO MAS

    NITRO MAS Member

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    #32
  13. nitroscott

    nitroscott Member

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    Pictures

    [​IMG]
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    #33
  14. nitroscott

    nitroscott Member

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    In the pics I have uploaded, I went on a 16 hour tour of Tx and this is what I came home with!
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    #34

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