Clutch vs. Converter

Discussion in 'PSI Superchargers Tech Questions' started by ProMod83, Dec 21, 2014.

  1. ProMod83

    ProMod83 Member

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    Which is faster and more consistent a good clutch program or a converter?

    It seems the clutch is quicker and faster has everyone switched to the converter just for less maintenance?

    If you could run a lock up converter successfully almost seems it would be clutch like while having no real in between round work to be done.

    Curious as to what others thoughts are. Just a general discussion no specific to power adder or class just general. Blown, Nitrous and Turbo pros and cons of both.
     
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  2. TADHemiracer

    TADHemiracer Member

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    Clutched Converter

    I am probably wrong but since I run a 3 disk pedal clutch, maybe I am a little biased. It looks to me that a converter may be a little more "forgiving" during the run, but as far as less maintenance, I am not so sure. Between rounds, if I need to make an adjustment, I open the access panel and make the adjustments to make up for wear, etc. That takes maybe ten minutes. With a converter, if there is a problem, you pull the trans, remove the converter and put in the spare converter, If you have one. That and the idea that a "good" and durable converter that will hold up to round after round without maintenance can cost $6000, maybe a clutch is less of a problem "at the track". I think that the idea of "no in between rounds" maintenance is a give and take.
    JMHO
     
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  3. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    We recently switched to a converter and never looked back. No more clutch grinding, no more floater resurfacing. Don't have to worry about different batches or makes of discs changing the clutch tuneup. No more having to zero out the clutch and best of all no clutch dust. Between rounds we hook up the cooler and cool the fluid and that is it. The consistency of a converter is just flat amazing. It is so consistent that you can make other changes and see what is best. Our mph is actually faster with a converter. In testing Adam's new ProXtreme car with a Chance converter and a Bruno drive the first pass made in the car was a 3.85 at 199.95 and by the fifth pass we were at 3.63 at 208 mph with a .93 sec sixty foot. We could never have done that with a clutchthat fast. We never had to pull the converter during those runs. Technology has come a long way in converters and converter drive units.
     
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  4. jay70cuda

    jay70cuda Well-Known Member

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    Mike I couldn't agree more but how do you gaurantee you get a good fast convertor. I've had a clutch from day 1 and yes convertors are much more forgiving on slick tracksbut I'm always Leary if be the one to get a bad convertor and be stuck with it.
     
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  5. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    My recommendation would be to get a Neal Chance Converter. Marty Chance has seen about every different car setup and will prescribe the correct one to you. Once you get a few races you can call Marty and show him the Racepak data and then he will tell you if you need to move the adjustment shims around or maybe buy a different stator for it. The stator cost $300 which is fairly cheap and is easy to change. Some racers swap stators depending on track conditions. The stators have different numbers of vanes and different vane angles.

    we use the Chance converter but let me say that the Coan is just as good but haven't used it. A lot of Promod racers use the Coan with great success. We just elected to go with the Chance unit and have been very happy with it.

    Also, let me say that we run a Spec Rite converter in the Viper over in Sweden and they are also great and cost $1800. Rod Burbage at Spec Rite can also set you up with the right combination. To change the stator in his requires cutting the converter and re-welding it which is very common and doesn't present a problem. Rod has a Promod and has designed the converter to work well with them. The Spec Rite converter is more common on the West Coast
     
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    Last edited: Dec 22, 2014
  6. Soldierboy0098

    Soldierboy0098 Active Member

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    Clutch vs convertor

    The clutch is quicker in the 1/4 mile from what we have seen so far. Booher has went 5.30 flat in TAD while the clutch guys have went low 20's

    The convertor is more consistent but you manage the power with ignition timing vs. the clutch.

    The convertor has way less maintenance. Simply hook a trans cooler up between rounds and change the fluid once in a while. vs. cutting and replacing discs and floaters, then measuring clearances and adjusting the pedal as the pack wears and hoping it wears consistently.

    The convertor may even be quicker in the 1/8 mile but its at least even.

    It brings out a different tuning style and usually you lower the blower over drive with the convertor to let it do the work.

    Convertor technology is really developing now and lock up convertors are now out there with the newer technology but I don't know of anyone who runs them yet at least in blown alcohol cars.

    I sold my Crower 10.7 3 disk and went to a quick drive a few years back and am very happy I did.

    Just some opinions and food for thought.

    Trevor Sherwood

     
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  7. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    You need to look at how many wins Mike Janis had this past NHRA PM season. He uses a converter. Being quicker doesn't always win the race it is more so consistency.
     
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  8. turbo69camaro

    turbo69camaro Member

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    With the ride the ''dots'' timing control we can lock the clutch up very fast between gear changes.With bronze floaters have maybe .010 total wear in 4 to 6 runs don't zero between runs anymore. the cost of the converter deal always scared me i remember the all steel bolt together then alum back half,full alum billet,coan bolt together,pro torque next gen,chance NSX,now the lock up that's about a 30,000 dollar merry go round lol
     
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  9. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    The Chance converters are right at $5800 for s NXS non lockup converter. Lockup converters are not legal in NHRA. So a clutch can cost anywhere from $2700 to $9500 depending on what you get. Clutch discs are about $130 average and floaters are $90-100 each. Then you need a clutch disc resurface machine. There is no way we could ever have an effective clutch program without zeroing it out between rounds. Also you only have so many runs on the discs before they glaze up and get too aggressive and unpredictable. The biggest pain is buying new discs that come out of s different batch and change the tuneup. If you are running the complete PDRA or NHRA then the total cost a year on a clutch is more than the cost of switching to a converter. If you are doing less then maybe a clutch is cheaper.
     
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  10. JustinatAce

    JustinatAce Member

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    Its not the parts, its the tune up. Traction is your limit.

    Not being in the clutch game anymore, I don't have a dog in the fight. What I will do is offer some food for thought.

    Legal Pro Mods (and TA cars) are quicker and faster typically with a clutch when they are right. So why do people seem to have so much more success when they switch to converters?

    - Technology and parts are newer, so there is less in the collective tuning bible about what hasn't worked and what has. People try crazier shit, and most of the time, crazy shit is what it takes no matter what you run.

    - As far as the launch goes, as long as all your bells and whistles are working in unison with the two step, lifting a thumb off a button will typically be more consistent than how quick someone moves their left foot.

    - People struggle for years on their own with the conventional tune up, then put this new shit in the car with a ton of help from others. Car runs a tenth quicker than it ever has and its magic.

    All of these things I've mentioned all point back to one major idea - People allow themselves to be kept in a cage based on what has and hasn't worked. This is what drives me nuts about racers, "There's no way that will work. We tried going halfway there once and it didn't work." If you never try anything outside the lines, expect your car to run within those same lines. And just because another guy says it will never work doesn't mean it won't.

    Sub .900 sec 60 foots must be because of converters right? Whether you run a clutch or converter, your limits are based on what the tires will and won't take. If I run a clutch and the best I've done is a .960 in the same class, I need to get to work. Maybe spend the $30,000 on testing the crazy shit instead of new parts, then even more in testing.

    So bottom line, for say a Pro Mod, if you want to struggle for a bit, then really haul ass while doing a lot of maintenance, get a clutch.

    If you want to struggle for a bit, then run average numbers with little maintenance, and you can't move your left foot quick enough, get a converter.
     
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    comp altered 632 likes this.
  11. TOL

    TOL Active Member

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    Just a dumb question. Could a lockup converter (assuming sufficient shear capacity and PWM control) not offer the best of both worlds with the added benefit of a safety cushion for times of less than better discretion? I dunno, but the prospects sound pretty interesting. I love the way that racing hardware has evolved. Keep the ideas coming :)...
     
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  12. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    Justin, I respect your knowledge on clutches BUT ...........
    Converters on launch apply a smoother power to the tires so they don't break loose as easily. I think the clutch just hits too hard so it is hard in a PM to get low 90's or high 80's sixty foot times and that also applies to the 330 times. Like I was talking about on our testing the new ProXtreme setup we also had extremely low 330' times. Like what you said when you are on the edge of traction it is smoother with a converter so less chance of upsetting the tires and going into spin. The other problem on clutches is getting the best of both the launch and the lockup later. Yes it can be done and we did it many times but too many variables to be consistent. This inconsistency makes it hard in adjusting the fuel and ignition tunups because of that clutch variable. So when you remove that variable by getting rid of the clutch then you can start adjusting the fuel and timing and tailor it to give you the best performance.
     
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  13. Randy G.

    Randy G. Top Alcohol

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    Initially the reason a pro mod team I was helping switched from a clutch to converter (West Coast Outlaws car) was because there was hardly enough time to change the clutch every run because of the schedule. A by product of switching from a clutch to a converter was one less hotel room needed for a clutch guy, less mess in the trailer and car, at it was easier to get down some of the less than stellar tracks.
     
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  14. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    I agree Randy, that is all true also
     
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  15. scott hall

    scott hall Member

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    Randy....

    That answer on the debate between Clutch & Converters makes the most sense I have ever heard!!!

    At the end of the day...parts are not about going .05 quicker but instead the common sense about having them....

    Scott Hall
     
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  16. AFC357

    AFC357 New Member

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    Trev! You got your car out!!?? I pulled my clutch out and went Bruno/Lenco for many of the reasons stated....
     
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  17. JustinatAce

    JustinatAce Member

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    How many times did you have the car geared up with a clutch enough to lower the stage RPM to barely idling and take 15-20 degrees out at the hit? I'm sure neither of those things effect how smooth the power application is either. :)
     
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  18. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    Justin, I don't understand that. We don't launch a converter at at or near idle. We are up on a Two Step. We pull out close to the same timing on the converter as we did on the clutch.
     
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  19. turbo69camaro

    turbo69camaro Member

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    How hard is the 2 step on a roots deal i know some of the screw teams get 1 or 2 runs on a belt and have to cycle out other parts for normal maintenance
     
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  20. jay70cuda

    jay70cuda Well-Known Member

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    14mm belt will last me all year and be a great back up for next year. 2 step isn't hard on blower belts. It's killer on springs and lifters. I've ran a 14mm belt for 3 years before. There impossible to break.
     
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