When to redo blower??

There is a math formula that if you know the hp you have now at the max boost you have and know your boost increase then it will give you the new theoretical hp if all is tuned correctly. You can put the figures in a post or email them to me.

 

With a roots blower I recommend spraying Prizm in before each run. Before Prizm came along the blower stripes were worn out after 12 runs but now with Prizm you can get double the amount of runs with the same boost. That sticky mess is what you want in the blower. When turning over the motor to run the valves you can feel the difference with and without Prizm. When I pickle a fuel system at the end of a race weekend I blowout every line, the leanouts and the fuel pump with WD40

 

Prizm gives you free horsepower by sealing the blower and by making it easier to turn

 

I like to lube the blower while it is running. Preferrably with air bleeds close to the rotors. This gives me a couple of different locations and the suction helps pull the spray to the rotor when the angle is hard to hit by just opening the butterflies.

I also like to do this with the butterflies open if you use the starter to spin over and get oil pressure.

I have found WD-40 is the best thing to use to clean prizm style lubes, so never spray that in the blower.

 

I remember hearing the saying years ago when I first started learning about tuning "Don't fall in love with the boost gauge."

In simple terms the tricked out blowers make airflow at lower overdrives. Comparing to another blower that makes the same boost but at a higher overdrive, the lower od blower will make more horsepower due to less power to drive it.

A really tricked out blower is going to be specific to an applicaiton, but for the most part, it's built to a certain rotor rpm range. If you buy a hand me down from the Pro Mod ranks, it's safe to assume it went 10k-10,500 rpm. If you run a lower engine rpm, you can do some math to get the blower back in a similar rotor rpm range.