Steel transfert

Discussion in 'PSI Superchargers Tech Questions' started by sunday driver, Oct 10, 2013.

  1. sunday driver

    sunday driver driver

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    How do you stop the steel transfert from the hob to the crank?
    Seems like it weld together every shot, do you have any idea why?
    Thanks
     
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  2. tad1011

    tad1011 Member

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    Use lots of never sieze and torque the crank bolt to 300 ft lbs.
     
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  3. Mark Leigh

    Mark Leigh Member

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    I don't know what motor we are talking about -- the info above is good , if its a hemi with a .750 bolt 450lbs is more like it --

    Is your tuneup good ? No piston damage , no bearing problems ?

    All the anti seeze and bolt torque won't stopp the transfer if your experiencing tuneup issues --
     
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  4. sunday driver

    sunday driver driver

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    We did used never sieze, grease, special gease, locktite, seems like nothing works.
    Somebody tried to make a hub with aluminum bronze?
     
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  5. underby6

    underby6 Active Member

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    You need a special washer, bolt, and a torque multiplier. I've not once had transfer when doing it this way. The best option is to put a ti hub on it, which I now have. I have the washers, if you want one let me know.

    Brandon Booher
    NHRA TAD #323
    Torque MGMT. - Owner
     
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  6. Joad Donnelly

    Joad Donnelly Member

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    What do you torque it to?

    Thanks!
     
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  7. sunday driver

    sunday driver driver

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    We torq over 400 pounds
     
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  8. drn1013rd

    drn1013rd Member

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    torque multipler

    Hey Brandon what brand torque multiplier do you own ive been looking at these since indy but really wasn't sure which one was sufficient and the were kind of pricey.
    Thanks Don
     
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  9. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    Metal transfer can only occur if there is movement between the hub and the crankshaft snout. It could be that you have had this problem for so long that the fit is now too loose and it can't be stopped unless you buy a new hub and use the special strong bolt and the special washer that Brandon is talking about or get it from RCD. The clean hub should be a press fit onto the snout and should have to be installed with a special tool. It should not be easy to get that hub on. If it easy then you are never going to stop the problem. Once you have the correct fit then the special washer and bolt can be used and torqued to 380-400 ft lbs. You can put all the weight of a 200 lb person on the end of a two foot breaker to get 400 ft lbs or 100 lb person on the end of a four foot bar or mathematically compute it out for any weight and length.
     
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  10. SoDak

    SoDak Active Member

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    I agree with the above and will add.

    Once we had a hub crack and then weld itself to crank.

    I've heard of clutch vibration troubles causing the hub to weld itself to crank also.

    How popular is the splined snout? We've only ever used the straight key style.
     
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  11. rick ertel

    rick ertel NTPA

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    splined snouts for alky is great

    sodak I have been using psi splines for a few seasons now have them in all big blower motors on tractors,they are great, alot better than same issues with keyed although bolt kits and 400 tq helped alot this works and is easy and fast.now nitro cars rattle and jam them but not had any problems even when there was "tuning issues"
     
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  12. Randy G.

    Randy G. Top Alcohol

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    Anti-sieze is not the answer as it is not intended to be a lubricant. It's purpose is a one shot deal when installing, not for an ongoing (cycling) issue like constant crank hub movement. It'll just dry out and then you are in trouble.

    We tried different things over the years and I found that cleaning the crank snout and crank hub with Brake Clean then applying red Locktite on both of the crank and the inside of the hub including the 1/4" keyway area liberally eliminated 95% of the problem. DON'T USE the "high temperature" red Locktite. Wipe off the excess. Remember to lubricate the front seal. Even on some of the loser hubs I never had a galling issue. I torque the bolt to about 300 pounds by setting my reversable torque wrench to it's max of 150 pounds. I have one guy holding the torque wrench on the supercharger hub with the belt on, and a second guy with a cheater bar on the crank hub bolt. As a side note I put a small amount or lubricant like the famous Detroit Diesel peanut butter on the back side of the bolt flange where it contacts the hub when tightening to lube it and use red Locktite on the bolt threads. The guy on the supercharger with the torque wrench hold it while the guy with the cheater bar, working from the ignition side of the engine, tightens the bolt until the torque wrench "pops". That's with 92% overdrive pullies. Once the torque wrench "pops" we give it another 1/8" turn.

    Never had a problem.

    RCD makes the best tool for installing and removing the hub. If you don't have one you should.
     
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  13. REEHL EQUIPMENT

    REEHL EQUIPMENT Authorized Merchant

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    Another thing to consider is the keystock used.

    I've seen many use soft keystock, and it allows the hub to move back and forth.

    Casale Engineering and Austin Coil came up with a good heat-treated keystock when Force still ran keyed hubs.

    I have that keystock in stock, and sell a lot of it with the keyed hubs we sell.

    The best answer is splined cranks and hubs.
     
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  14. TOL

    TOL Active Member

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    If a person has the option, the PSI spline or the RCD spline?
     
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  15. kosky racing

    kosky racing Comp Eliminator

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    spline

    You mean the best option--- RCD
     
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  16. sunday driver

    sunday driver driver

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    Thanks for the reply, I will try to make one in aluminum bronze.
    Will see what it will do.....
     
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  17. h2b puller

    h2b puller Member

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    I doubt if aluminum bronze would be strong enough, i think it would break or moves on the hub so you don"t know were your ignition timing would be.
     
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  18. KEITH CLARK

    KEITH CLARK Member

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    hub gauling

    I built several hubs, 10 years ago , 6, 3/16 keys, had the I/d hard chromed, torque the bolt to 300 lb/ft , have never had it stick, still looks new, Velasco cranks. George Sitko crank bolt, the hex is about 1.5" long, socket can't fall off, it is also broached 1/2" square in the front so you don't need a socket to rotate the crank while doing the bottom end
     
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  19. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    I doubt that bronze and aluminum would be anywhere near hard enough since most hubs are made out of something like 4330 steel or titanium. One thing to check is that your bolt is not bottoming out.
     
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  20. secondwindracing

    secondwindracing top alcohol

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    we use Torque multipliers and the only one I will use is the snap on ..one..Dave
     
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