Reusing Oil

This may have been already covered but I can't find it in a search. How do I cook the used oil and clean it so I can reuse it? I know lots of guys are doing that these days. Dave Germain

 

salvage oil

Aloha Dave,
Just finishing up the heating of 14 qt 60 wt. for methanol removal. I just heat it on a hot plate in a pail, I try to maintain the temp around 160* to 180*, it takes some time so be patient. At the mentioned temp you will encounter a rolling boil, don't be alarmed it just the methanol activity and you will be able to smell the methanol fumes, just heat until all traces (Oder) of methanol have dissipated. Let cool and settle for about 24hrs strain through a cone paint strainer first, then again with one of the micro screen coffee filters if your concerned about contaminants. Forgot!! use a good pail (Milk type) or Kitchen quality, hot oil easily wicks through seams.
Aloha Doug Cobeen

 

Dave, go buy a turkey fryer appox 70 dollars. Should be appox 30 qt size, mine is 30 qt with a mark at 15 qt. Helps when checking to make sure I still have the correct amount of oil in my motor. As the other post said heat to appox 180 deg and wait for the bubbles to die down ( the oil will change back to original color) and you are good to go. The fryer comes with an alum. pot with two handles, while it is still warm (thin) I pour it into two small containers and dump one each in through the valve cover breather tubes on my MBR motor (lubes the valvetrain up really well). I do this after each race weekend for a max of three times. Could probably do more but it feels like I'm cheating. I also use one quart of lucas oil treatment per 15 qt's of 60 wt valvoline. Works great and only takes about 15 min.

 

so your looking at 15 mins of heating the oil completely?

 

Thanks Guys

I tried letting it cool, 70wt with a quart of stabilizer. It wouldnt hardly go through the paint strainer I was using. So if I do it hot it still pours. I also tried a hot plate and then went to the turkey frier. The turkey frier is a lot quicker. Dave Germain

 

Are we talking open flame propane heater ?

 

In tank heaters

In our Nostalgia Alcohol Hemi F/C we installed 2 - 400 watt Moroso heaters in the front mount 24 quart dry sump tank. In 20-30 minutes, depending on ambient temp, the oil is "cooked" and and ready to go. If the car has sat overnite or longer, I remove the dry sump belt and give the pump a spin to get most of the oil from the engine back into the tank before cooking.
I do not have to open the cap to vent the vapors: the rails and puke tank do their job.
No work, no chance to introduce dirt, no messy containers or chance of a spill. And we can heat the oil before lighting the motor. Works great!

Steve Christophersen

http://www.christophersenracing.uncle-earls.com/latest-news.html

 

Open flame, I do it outside. The oil level is only halfway of the pot, appox 12in down from top, no chance of splash out onto flame. The burner is small..maybe 5in od, the pot is appox 14in od, so it covers the burner really well, I keep a fire extinguisher close and I don't leave it while I cooking.

 

masterbuilt electric indoor turkey frier available from amazon .com 109.00 or the xl model which is larger (wish i bought the larger one, small one holds 5 gal. but only 3 should be put in)at 170.00. no flame , can be used in the shop, (with some ventilation) has a thermostat, and drain spicot .. watch as you pass 150 to 160 degrees as the oil really boils up and foams, fill only half way, after the boiling stops at that temp leave it in at 190 for a few hours. new oil.

 

Nitro

Can I use this method with nitro-contaminated oil? Anyone know? Looks like the boiling point is 100-103*C, so it would seem that heating the oil to about 220*F would boil it out?

 

no heat on nitro

I have been doing this oil recycling for about the past seven or eight years. I learned how to do it with nitro last year. The heat actually makes the nitro mix with the oil better. just use the aforementioned turkey fryer pot. Get a spigot valve installed on the bottom, i made a small round sump (about two inches diameter) on the bottom where i installed the valve. Put the oil in when it is cool (or warm but won't separate good until it cools) and let it sit about an hour. open the spigot and nitro will flow out. leave open until you start to get mostly oil and close, wait another half hour or so and repeat. Three times and you will be down to clean oil. The nitro is heavier than the oil so it separates out to the bottom all by itself. When doing methanol polluted oil you have to heat it as the alky is lighter than the oil and the heat causes it to separate out to the top and evaporate. I have had much success with the process described. We use REDLINE racing oil. 60w for alky and nitro 70 for the nitro deal. No experience with using non synthetic oil, so don't really know how well that works. Good Luck. send me a PM if you still have questions.

 

we do it with a electric indoor turkey frier also but after we take the oil out the frier there's a black shit on the bottom
we pour it thru a filter back in the engine
after a run with the " cooked oil" we see this black shit alover in the engine
we use redline oil mixed 60/70

 

I also have black stuff on bottom after heating, using royal purple. anyone know what it is?
Reeper

 

I remove the valve covers then plug in the oil pan heater 45min later no more fuel contamination.This is what I do on my top dragster clean and safe.

 

Ring/cylinder wall material ??

 

Is the black stuff magnetic ?

 

Are you guys only doing this with synthetic oil or regular oil and if so how many times do you reuse it.
thanks don

 

if you overheat oil you will get a black carbon
but i would think the synthetics wouldn't have carbon in them
if they are a true synthetic, maybe they are blends
try heating the oil at a lower temp to ramp up

 

Like Bar-B-Que, cook it low and slow.

 

Some of it is. like powder on our deal