Suggestions/tips for new driver to TAFC

Hey there everyone,

This season our team is switching over to a TAFC from TAD, which I have driven for the past 2 seasons, and before that 8 seasons of Jr. Dragster. I'm 18 years old, and like I said, have driven in the TAD class for 2 seasons with a best E.T. of 5.988 @ 227.32mph with a 526 cid/Roots blower combo in the dragster. We will be running the same engine in the Funnycar as we plan to run our local national event (The IHRA Rocky Mountain Nationals in Edmonton) which is in July.

Basically I'm just looking for any suggestions that would help ease the transition- different driving techniques or ways of doing things, etc. Any and all information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

Nathan,

I have no tips for you, but I do wish you and your family good luck for next season!

Nick

 

i was always told "all we do is let the clutch out, shift twice and pull chutes" . seriously though don't be affraid to turn the wheel. a good car will do what you tell it. good luck

 

Nathan:

Now don't laugh...but here goes:

Put your firesuit, helmet and belts on and sit in it with the body down at least 15-30 minutes several times before you ever drive it. Make sure the blower and injector are on so you get an idea of the limited visibilty. Do it somewhere where you can see out the windshield (ie, not in the garage where the wall is in front of you). Practice making runs in your head and reach for the chutes after every run. Get used to the confinement that many feel going from a dragster to a funny car. It's very different than you might think. Can you say "Claustrophobia"? Make a game out of finding the firebottle lever with your eyes closed.

When you're strapped in, make sure your elbows are free and not bound up into your waist...but don't have the steering wheel so far out that your straightarmed. You need to be able to make quick but controlled moves with the steering wheel and you don't need anything stopping you.

Now...

Put the shift light on the back of the injector, not on a dash in the drivers compartment. Keep your eyes up.

Throw the tach in the trash. It's for setting the idle. If you have a computer, you'll quickly get the feel for the right stage RPM if the spool in your barrel valve is right. You don't need any distractions. I took mine off, DT's, Pete's and MW didn't get one with me, either. Guess what?...they liked it.

When you move the last several feet up to stage, do NOT turn the steering wheel in a funny car at all. Because of the shorter wheelbase, you will preload one tire and cause yourself more grief than you deserve.

Drive it like it's a video game, where the object is to keep your focal point past the finishline over the center of the injector. If you're good, you'll see and feel it move before it actually happens and catch it before it moves you too far left or right out of the groove. Like racing a motorcycle around curves where you need to focus ahead into the next turn and not the one you're in, you need to look at a point well beyond the finishline and keep focused on it. If your looking at grandstands, guardrailing or scoreboards you're screwed.

Bottom line is, get familiar with the feel of a funny car before you make a pass in it. Plus, I always liked the "video game" aspect because it made it fun for me to drive. Put your 50 cent token in the slot and see who wins, you or the car.

Fun Fun.

 

That was impressive Randy! Frank Hawley should hire you, I had wondered if I ever got the chance to drove a FC how I would be able to adjust. I have heard the Claustrophobia deal has detered more than a few racers who thought they would like driving one of those things!

 

Good post Randy

 

Randy, .50 cents in the slot?

 

Good post Randy

 

Thanks for the replies and tips. I'm not counting on this deal being anything like the dragster...as when I went from the junior dragster (11.5 secs @ 60mph) straight to the TAD, it was nothing as I expected either.

Thanks again,

-Nathan Sitko

 

very good post randy, especially about the making runs in your head. nathan i do that alot still, sit in my car in the shop and go through the motions, push the buttons, flip the chute levers,etc. pay attention to the timing of your motions though or you will program yourself to short shift, make it as realistic as possible.

once you get the hang of it, you'll never want another dragster!

 

A few years ago, I had asked Gary Scelzi what the differences were between the two since he has driven both. He said you can manhandle the FC's a lot more, whereas the Dragsters you got to finese the steering and Not overcorrect. I would bet the close confinement of the FC's has to be the biggest adjustment.

 

Like others have said.."runs" in the shop are a good thing to do.And dont settle for anything less than 100% comfort when you are in the car. If something feels like it would fit you better if it was moved...MOVE IT. Ive driven both dragsters and funny cars,the fc will keep you plenty busy. but once you get comfy you'll be smiling all weekend.
Marc White

[ January 24, 2004, 09:09 PM: Message edited by: alkyfc ]

 

I have watched Nath progress as a driver. He's very calm and focused, and listens well to instruction. Not easily rattled, as a driver, mature beyond his years.

The vision thing might be your biggest concern, as well as the confinment deal. When I went from the open altered to the f/c, I was already used to not seeing straight ahead ...can't see over the injector.... You might though, your taller . The other wierd thing is the darn windshield is so far away. I couldn't help but sort of focus on it and the dash, my first time. Almost like I was sort of seperated from the car ... hated that feeling, but it went away.
The sound is going to be way diffrent too.

I think you might want to completly suit up when your doing your garage runs.

You should talk with John , Nath. In my opinion, he's the best driver in our area right now. Seems to be level headed.

Will you call us when we can come over to see the car?

Suppose this would be a bad time to tell your dad I maybe want to lift the motor up a tad in our car? -J

 

Nathan good luck. I agree with Jay But also talk to Rodger Bateman he helped us alot last year. As Rodger or John will most likely be sign you licence. They help us alot. Also Greg Hunter may be of some help as he went to Frank Hawley. If you want his email. Email Me and i will sent it to you dad. Rodger and Greg helped us alot last year. Hopefully we will get the licence this year.

[ January 24, 2004, 11:57 PM: Message edited by: stephen bolger ]

 

Nathan, I too made the big switch (as in BIG)to fc from tad a couple years ago. I must say it's the best way for a better return on investment in drag racing. Not that the financial ROI ever makes sense in Sportsman drag racing, but perhaps you too will discover that, the thrill and excitement is by far greater than (my 2yrs) in tad,. So is the difficulty. As pointed out by others before, with more than my 2 1/2 yrs in a "alky flopper" remember: PRACTICE,PRACTICE,PRACTICE inside the cockpit sitting outside on a road with a lease 1/4 mile of "lane" in front of you. Also, do not let the first time you make a pass be your first time to have the body down with engine running. Every one said to me that when they lowered it down, it would be a time for certain fear, however I found that it actually gets quiet with all that "thick" firewall in front of you.lol,lol.
Seriously though, you should learn what it sounds like before you make the first hit. It'll be one less "new" thing for your brain to process and adjust to, at a most crucial time. I learned that leaving below the correct launch rpm made the car actually not leave straight. If that happens and your report card ( the computer) shows you were too low, then jack up the r's some more,,,and if you think it's too much when you are staged, then jack it a little more!! if the clutch is right you can tell, just like in tad. DO NOT USE THE TACH TO LAUNCH OR SIFT TO 2ND GEAR!!! I use a 2 stage shift light that allows me to leave with a predetermined rpm, that's activated by the brake. I have always been within 100-150 r's, but I'm 51 yrs old and hearing is going away. :-(
Now one last bit of free advise (free and worth every penny of it, lol): do not lift then turn hard or turn hard and lift, in very rapid succession, because you'll be over correcting at extreme excelleration( not good on the race car headers, body,and or chassis and wallet). You have to co-ordinate the pedal with the steering wheel, and the steering being a litte ahead of any lifting of the loud pedal. You may take out a cone at sometime, but the "collateral damage" is far less than a "direct hit" into the guard rail or heaven forbid (thank you God) the other car next to you.
Hope this helps some, in your new ride and hope you fall in love with her, because there's nothing close to the feeling of accomplishment and satisfaction in knowing that you DRIVE A FUNNY CAR. warren dauzat

 

Warren:

Brad Anderson gave me a great piece of advice as a new driver 14 years ago. I've seen more than one car hit the wall as a result of the driver breaking this one simple little rule applicable to new drivers.

That is: As a new driver in a TA/FC, once you step off the gas, DON'T EVER get back on it. A seasoned driver will know exactly where they are if they need to lift. But a new driver usually lifts because they are lost in the car or have the feeling they've lost their sense of control (tireshake, close to the centerline or guardrail, etc.). In an effort to be a hero so your crew and fans will still like you, the new driver will stick his foot back in it and have no idea which way they're pointing. Remember, these things go zero to 1/2 track in 3.6 seconds. If you're even slightly angled anywhere but straight, by the time you realize it you've hit whatever it was you weren't able to see 1/2 second earlier. Blammo, right in the wall or across the centerline into your opponents lane (or car) you go.

More free stuff:

One tip Shirley gave me was very helpfull. I stopped driving in 1997 when Pete Swayne came on board. Pete quit at the end of 2000 because of the overdrive change and I wanted to race the Winternational's in 2001 which was the first race with the slower 1.92 overdrive rule. I kept my license current and was allowed to drive again, but I hadn't made one pass in 4 years. Anyway, she told me that whenever there was a long time between races for her, the first run or two she would look at the tree and pre-stage the car. Then she would look away from the 'tree and down the center of her lane in order to focus entirely on her focal point downtrack. She would catch the Christmas tree for her final staging process and ambers out of her periferal vision. This allowed her to focus on a specific point past the finishline from the get-go rather than trying to focus at the tree and, at the flash of ambers, try to find her point with multiple "G's" trying to rip her head off once the car left the line. After a run or two your mind and body are back up to speed and it's not necessary to do anymore. I actually had a .444 light not even looking directly at the 'tree (pre LED days), and for the first pass or two it helped me get reacclamated to the acceleration. It also helped me with the ability to know where I was on the track.

It works.

 

thanks Mr. G, I'll be driving again in April or May after approx 2yrs of regrouping, and plan on not worrying about the tree untill comfortable again with "the view". Respectfully and always appreciate all of your comments and suggestions.Warren Dauzat

 

Thanks for the compliments Prospector Jay. And once again, thanks everyone for your input. From what all of you have told me, it's going to be a huge adjustment, just as I expected it to be.

Thanks again!

 

Randy, will these courses be available on DVD? LOL