Steel transfert

How do you stop the steel transfert from the hob to the crank?
Seems like it weld together every shot, do you have any idea why?
Thanks

 

Use lots of never sieze and torque the crank bolt to 300 ft lbs.

 

I don't know what motor we are talking about -- the info above is good , if its a hemi with a .750 bolt 450lbs is more like it --

Is your tuneup good ? No piston damage , no bearing problems ?

All the anti seeze and bolt torque won't stopp the transfer if your experiencing tuneup issues --

 

We did used never sieze, grease, special gease, locktite, seems like nothing works.
Somebody tried to make a hub with aluminum bronze?

 

You need a special washer, bolt, and a torque multiplier. I've not once had transfer when doing it this way. The best option is to put a ti hub on it, which I now have. I have the washers, if you want one let me know.

Brandon Booher
NHRA TAD #323
Torque MGMT. - Owner

 

What do you torque it to?

Thanks!

 

We torq over 400 pounds

 

torque multipler

Hey Brandon what brand torque multiplier do you own ive been looking at these since indy but really wasn't sure which one was sufficient and the were kind of pricey.
Thanks Don

 

I agree with the above and will add.

Once we had a hub crack and then weld itself to crank.

I've heard of clutch vibration troubles causing the hub to weld itself to crank also.

How popular is the splined snout? We've only ever used the straight key style.

 

splined snouts for alky is great

sodak I have been using psi splines for a few seasons now have them in all big blower motors on tractors,they are great, alot better than same issues with keyed although bolt kits and 400 tq helped alot this works and is easy and fast.now nitro cars rattle and jam them but not had any problems even when there was "tuning issues"

 

Anti-sieze is not the answer as it is not intended to be a lubricant. It's purpose is a one shot deal when installing, not for an ongoing (cycling) issue like constant crank hub movement. It'll just dry out and then you are in trouble.

We tried different things over the years and I found that cleaning the crank snout and crank hub with Brake Clean then applying red Locktite on both of the crank and the inside of the hub including the 1/4" keyway area liberally eliminated 95% of the problem. DON'T USE the "high temperature" red Locktite. Wipe off the excess. Remember to lubricate the front seal. Even on some of the loser hubs I never had a galling issue. I torque the bolt to about 300 pounds by setting my reversable torque wrench to it's max of 150 pounds. I have one guy holding the torque wrench on the supercharger hub with the belt on, and a second guy with a cheater bar on the crank hub bolt. As a side note I put a small amount or lubricant like the famous Detroit Diesel peanut butter on the back side of the bolt flange where it contacts the hub when tightening to lube it and use red Locktite on the bolt threads. The guy on the supercharger with the torque wrench hold it while the guy with the cheater bar, working from the ignition side of the engine, tightens the bolt until the torque wrench "pops". That's with 92% overdrive pullies. Once the torque wrench "pops" we give it another 1/8" turn.

Never had a problem.

RCD makes the best tool for installing and removing the hub. If you don't have one you should.

 

If a person has the option, the PSI spline or the RCD spline?

 

spline

You mean the best option--- RCD

 

Thanks for the reply, I will try to make one in aluminum bronze.
Will see what it will do.....

 

I doubt if aluminum bronze would be strong enough, i think it would break or moves on the hub so you don"t know were your ignition timing would be.

 

hub gauling

I built several hubs, 10 years ago , 6, 3/16 keys, had the I/d hard chromed, torque the bolt to 300 lb/ft , have never had it stick, still looks new, Velasco cranks. George Sitko crank bolt, the hex is about 1.5" long, socket can't fall off, it is also broached 1/2" square in the front so you don't need a socket to rotate the crank while doing the bottom end

 

we use Torque multipliers and the only one I will use is the snap on ..one..Dave

 

Hi, I like the idea of hard chrome, what thickness would be good?