SS Dykes top ring / Gapless 2nd ring questions

Hey all, I have a KB stage 6 with Arias pistons, the setup came with the stainless dykes top ring and a 2 piece gapless 2nd. Is this a good setup for blown alky? unblown gas? What top ring gap would be good for either? My thoughts are to get this combo running on gas then go alky later. Can I leave the rings the same? Not looking for ultimate power, it's just a bracket setup.
DJ

 

Hi , I'm Scott. Ok,as for end gaps, go with .008 - .0085 per inch of bore on the ss Dykes. Example: .0085x4.310=.037. Keep in mind that the stainless expands more than ductile iron(what most moly rings are made of). The second ring, if a C&A" zero gap"which it probobly is as apposed to total seals "gappless", just be sure to check both the top & the bottom gaps at the lap jointed end where the butting edges would be & see that they are between .025-.100. Because the end of the ring overlaps is why those gaps can be so large. The little shim that comes with the zero gap 2nd rings does not have to be run. It'st for excessive back clearance. i e, if you can wrap a shim into a 2nd groove(don't let shim overlap, trim so has small gap) then put the 2nd ring in on top of it & the ring is still a little below the edge of the groove then you can run them. Hope this helps. Any other questions just email me at scottthehawk@hotmail.com

 

Scott again. Almost forgot: Yes thats a great ring combo to run & yes, set up the way I explaned, they would be fine for your worst case senario on down to the mildest combo. Two things to keep in mind are: 280 grit finish on cylnder walls not 400 like moly rings & the only draw back to the zero gap 2nd ring is if you determine if you're going to tear the engine down based only by a leak down test. You could actually have a colapsed or damaged top ring but still get a decent leak down number due to the zero gap 2nd and not realize there's a problem.That's it I think. Have fun

 

second ring gaps

There are some theories out there that the second ring should have a gap equal to or slightly more than the top ring. Apparently what happens is with a little blowby by the top ring and a smaller or zero gap second ring you get a pressurization of the space between rings and a resulting top ring flutter. I don't remember where I read that but it makes sense.

 

Speed Pro is one of the ring companys that did a lot of testing around the idea of increasing the gap on the second ring to increase top ring stabilization at higher RPM's. The pressure buildup between the top and second ring was unloading the back side of the top ring and a resultant flutter resulted.
All there ring installation instructions now recommend an actual larger gap for the second ring in relation to the top ring.
The gapless and conventional ring theroy go in opposite directions. Years ago I chased the gapless theroy and found less than improved results. So I guess you can say I currently go with the conventional ring theroy with increased second ring gap. It seems to work.