Rings cam timing compression questions

Have a few questions as we are rebuilding our engine due to a rod failure this past weekend . we are current running a small dish in our piston compression runs about 10.5 to 1 we are running approx 40 lbs of boost procharger on alcohol . we currently run a stainless top ring . we arent using any oil or anything like that but we do get a lot of contamination in our oil pan as after two runs there is approx 3 quarts of alcohol in the oil . we run a wet sump engine sorry no room for dry sump not an option we run royal purple nitro oil so alcohol doesnt really mix with the oil . our questions are would a dykes ring be a better option and possibly a flat top piston which would prob raise compression to around 11.3 to 11.5 to 1 ? second because our exhaust only flows 68 % of intake flow and our current cam is a 283 288 would a longer exhaust duration be more beneficial we are on a 116 centerline at the moment installed at 112 . 825 int 779 ex 54 overlap . Ps we used to have a pan heater but the one time it got plugged in and crew member drained oil it blew the engine from inside out Ive heard though that if you keep them plugged in between runs with venting the valve covers that you can burn off some of the alcohol in the pan does this work or is our problem stemming more from the rings?

 

Alky in oil

To make a long story short I've fought this also.
Lean your barrel valve.

 

I agree with Sodak,

Except replace "barrel valve" with "fuel map",

From your earlier post it seems that you have not had a chance to run the car with a good tune since switching to alky, with the manifold pressure sensor readings that you had, and cylinders misfiring etc. I would think that you were diluting the oil quite a bit and once you get the combo dialed in the problem will go away.

As far as going to 11.3 to .5 I would think that with the 40 lbs and charge temp that the F3R puts out this would be a good move especially if you put the cooler back on but I aint no centrifigal guru.

Have you talked to any of the guys at Prochager? or anyone on YB seems like there are a lot of people running the F-3 and the small Ford with and without the coolers on meth there.

Richard Gavle

 

When I got the top end tuneup ironed out on my roots blown small block, the oil contamiation went away almost totally. If i change the oil after it's warm, it stays looking brand new all day (4-6 passes).

 

First get the map right and if its still diluting then lean the BV.

 

forgive my ignorance does leaning the barrel valve the same as leaning out the idle as we are running fuel injection?

 

Correct. Leaning the BV, or reducing the fuel at idle will help keep the oil clean.

WHat i experienced is that most of my contamination was happening DOWN track, and not at idle. Once i got good plug reads, and such, my oil contamination dropped considerably.

 

ok makes sense we have alot of fuel in the engine right now hence why its not running good mph we did this to keep the Egt temps down . so seeing as how we have to rebuild our engine and it needs a new cam and crank pistons rods etc... would bumping the compression up be beneficial we were thinking around 11.3 from the 10.5 we are now. plus is a stainless dykes ring a better option than the current regular stainless ring we have in the Engine now . still trying to get some info on the cam duration at the moment as well .

 

Stainless rings are a thing of the past. They're hard on cylinder walls. Use the hellfire ring. They withstand alcohol and wont tear up your cylinder walls.

 

we arent running the intercooler anymore as we couldnt even get the car to run barely with it as inlet temps were to cold . so do we go with a dykes hellfire ring or a standard ring ?