Radiator or no Radiator with alcohol

i am stuck on weather i should use a Radiator or if i should just save on weight and the hassel of trying to use coolant with a cam driven fuel pump and a burst panel in the intake. the only reason i wont to use coolant is so i wont have to tow my car back to the pits after i make a pass. or do you think i would be fine with out coolant. dose anyone know how long you can go without coolant using alcohol with about 20 pounds of boost. Or dose anyone know of a solution to my problem. thanks mike

 

I dont understand why people say running alcohol will keep a block cool enough to drive around on. after just a 7.50 pass the engine is HOT, dam hot, if you bracket race where you may have only 30min turn around time its gonna get the oil very warm, etc. as the fuel burns it makes btu's of heat, that gets transfered to the rest of the engine. maybe the injector hat frosts up, but the pan of oil heats up. yeah it does take alittle longer to get as warm as gas on the stands. I would never drive my blown car back to the pits, it would be melted.

 

SBC with water in the heads, dry al block. Rains alky and heats up to 240 in seven and half seconds. She gets towed.

 

tow it if you want a race car you blow a burst panel on a run with water in it your screwed and you will probley junk it

what was i thinking blowing a bust panel wont effect the water unless you have water going threw the intake and it cracks

my bad

 

My RED is not blown, has a small radiator, block half filled. Running 8.6Xs that little radiator is MARGINAL. Its a bracket car and gets driven everywhere. If youre running fat enough to stay cool youre filling the pan with alky.

 

real race cars don't have radiators..Dave
www.myspace.com/daveloweswr

 

A couple of years ago I ran an all alum. 632 cu in motor in a F.E.D. with an Enderle hat with water in the block and heads.No blower. All I used for a radiator was a Derail oil cooler with a built in fan, drove it around as much as needed never, ever ran hot. I think it was because of the alum. block shedding heat really well. If I remember right less timing runs cooler and more timing runs hotter, less timing and the egt's go up and more timing the egt's go down. Seemed that with more advance the fuel burned more completely and had less fire in the pipes. I think if you keep the boost down and the timing down you can do it with no problems, but it will wear the blower alot more and milk the hell out of your oil, you could run a vaccume pump to help on the milking but thats another story. Jody

 

I know we all want to loose weight but IMHO if You run a dial in class wont The car pick up if heat the heads more? Not saying that if I see you don't have a rad that i'll do a very long burn and stage procedure not at all.
I'm not like that.
Steve

 

radiator

what about the extra run time on the blower. that cant be good.

 

radiator.

Don,t understand why some of the cars in this post ran hot. Fatten it up a little. Had a injected rear engine car, hard blocked to the water holes ran water in the heads with a remote pump through a B+M trans cooler. That i hardly ever used .NEVER once did it run extremly hot. I had to let it run in the staging lanes to get heat in it. It was a 438 BB chevy that ran 7.70's all day. But take a buddy with you and tow it around. Why do you want to drive it. with a blower. You would have to keep the RPM's to low.Or run a loose converter. Just my thoughts Right or wrong. Good Luck Don

 

Mine was running hot because I had to lean it down. I was milking oil reeaallly bad. I now run very consistent but warm. I leave the oil in for several weeks. I take the valve covers off at the end of the day. Before leaving for the track I drain the water out of the pan.