oil wt

Discussion in 'PSI Superchargers Tech Questions' started by wfh, Apr 24, 2010.

  1. wfh

    wfh New Member

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    I was told to run straight 50 wt oil in the motor. I spoke with another racer and he runs 70 wt.. For drag racing what are most using and any brand prefrence.
    Motor is 540 11.5-1-....1471 r,hh. tfx and war hemi solid heads. wet sump, thx
     
    #1
    wfh, Apr 24, 2010
  2. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    Since you be up North in Canada then 50 wt maybe good in those chilly mornings or evenings in the spring or fall. In the summer I think the 70 wt is best. You still may need to warm the oil up first thing in the morning. We have a heater in our oil tank and get it up to 95* before we start the motor. Two oils that I recommend is Valvoline and Brad-Penn.
     
    #2
    Mike Canter, Apr 24, 2010
  3. wfh

    wfh New Member

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    thanks alot Mike!
     
    #3
    wfh, Apr 24, 2010
  4. secondwindracing

    secondwindracing top alcohol

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    I with Mike ..penn or valvoline..Dave
     
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    secondwindracing, Apr 24, 2010
  5. camevans

    camevans New Member

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    Red Line recommends 60WT in the alcohol engines and 70WT in the nitro engines. We have some customers that run the 70WT in alcohol engines, but our products work better to fight fuel dilution so its really not necessary with smaller fuel pumps.

    The Red Line 70WT was specifically developed around the big fuel pumps in NHRA TF and FC, so it more than does the job in A-Fuel and Nostalgia applications.
     
    #5
    camevans, Apr 25, 2010
  6. SoDak

    SoDak Active Member

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    I'm surprised the answers don't include oil temp as a factor also:confused:
     
    #6
    SoDak, Apr 26, 2010
  7. Will Hanna

    Will Hanna We put the 'inside' in Top Alcohol
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    redline

    I would recommend Red Line especially in cool weather applications. It is much more fluid at ambient temperature, which really, really helps at start up. Not to mention you can heat up or boil the alcohol back out of it.

    Many problems are created by lack of lubrication at start up, specifically pushrods. If the oil is too thick from being too cold, a push rod adjuster will start to gall. This problem gradually gets worse through the burnout, then if it makes it to stage. It will eventually mushroom the pushrod and adjuster until it kicks the pushrod or pushrods off. If it is an intake pushrod (it usually is) the boost not going in that one cylinder goes to the rest, creating an extreme lean condition. Sometimes it just knocks the panels out and burns a piston. Other times it burns the piston and pushes the headgasket. Other times it will kick a rod or worse. An exaust pushrod can cause extensive damage as well due to the exhaust gases not having anywhere to go.

    If you do use a conventional oil below 65 ambient, I would advise you to heat it up prior to running.
     
    #7
    Will Hanna, Apr 27, 2010
  8. camevans

    camevans New Member

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    Oil Temp

    It's interesting that he mentions oil temp. How many alcohol or fuel racers have you seen with oil temp sensors? Practically zero. That inference is dead on in that it is a determinate of viscosity, but with the cars you guys use, fuel dilution has as big of an effect if not more. You need some temp, but you'll still see wide swings of viscosity from start up to shut down.

    We tested with Kalitta over oil temp, simply out of curiosity, and found that it never exceeded 160f. Motor oils are designed to work at 210, which is a reminder that the 50, 60, or 70wt that you're using is at a viscosity WAY over that most of the time. We all run these oils due to the fuel dilution that takes them down to the centistoke rating of a 30wt.

    We don't know about the other companies, but Red Line 60WT and 70WT are designed to work at lower oil temps where you guys race. Many of the other oils have packages that aren't effective until oil temp that fuel cars and alcohol cars never experience.
     
    #8
    camevans, Apr 29, 2010

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