Need Fuel System Advise

I need some fuel system help, and yes i know i am nuts.
I am building a 1963 valiant promod for fastest street car racing and i am also
street driving the car as a week end warrior. I will save racing for the track though.
I am running a 526cid with k11 superman and carbon buzzard hat with a fuel mgmt block.I will put some alky nozzles in the hat to cool and lubricate...
I am wanting advise on how to properly link two seperate fuel cells together and be able to pull all fuel from my front fuel cell in front of my radiator.
My front cell is 8 gal my rear cell in trunk between the frame rails is probably going to be 14 - 15 gallons.
I will need this capacity to street drive it straight up on the blower. I also want to bypass enough fuel to improve mileage and driveability on the street.
I will use a typical barrel valve with rage pump and i am concerned with how i can bypass fuel with these pressures when fuel is comming from the front cell
that is being supplied from the rear cell. Do i use gravity or some type of fuel pump or do i use flapper valves... I am concerned with over flowing fuel cells and which cell and how to bypass it.
I also need ideas on bypassing with fuel mgmt block and air or electric valves with maybe lehey pressure and boost type controllers... this way i can distinguish between part throttle and full throttle in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gear tooling around or standing on the throttle. Any helpful input would be appreciated. Thanks guys.

 

Call Blower Drive Service and get one of their plates that mount under the hat and convert it to electronic fuel injection. That way you get rid of the front tank and simplify the whole deal and also enables you to instantly tune it to the the different blower pulleys you will be using for street and race. They have the complete systems and will set it all up for you.

Blower Drive Service
562-693-4302
www.blowerdriveservice.com

 

Funny you should mention this, I'm doing the same thing.

12 Gallon rear cell, 2 gallon front cell.

Dual Enderle pumps. 110 for a transfer pump, and an 1100 for a motor supply pump, run off of a dual pump drive from Enderle.

-12 from the rear tank to the transfer (110) pump. -8 from the transfer pump to the front tank. -8 return from the front tank to the rear tank, mounted 1" from the top of the cell (serves dual purpose of return and vent).

-12 from the front cell to the main (1100) pump. Enderle bypasses will return to the 1100 pump inlet via a distribution block that's mounted to the 3-way bypass.

I've put a lot of thought on this before deciding on a final design, and I think this is going to work.

The only thing I wish I could have found at an affordable price before the front tank was made would have been a vent with float attached. I found one for an aircraft, but they wanted several hundred dollars for it, with a minimum order of 10 pcs. Sorry, but I'm not paying $3k for a bloody tank vent...worst case I'll run a bigger return line to the rear cell.

Hope that helps. It's what we're doing this year.

 

cant make 2400 hp with electronic fuel injection and alcohol. Too many injectors needed for alcohol. Most racing bodies will require mechanical fuel injection.

 

Actually, with the new injectors from Mike Moran, it's possible. 200 LBS/Hr per injector. Of course, at $200.00 per injector, it's not really cheap.

 

ive used a holley float bowl on the front tank in several MFI street/strip set ups. both gas and alky and it has worked well. you can use the pressurized fuel from the rear transfer pump for primming also.

 

I have to run mechanical inj, rules you know.

 

We put together the same kinda thing on our car last year. We didn't have room for a big tank up front so we ran 4 gallon and a 16 gallon in the back. We had an electric fuel pump (aeromotive) that you could "dead blow" w/out problems. So we got a ball valve float from I believe Grainger???...had the float in the 4 gal cell, as the level went down it opened the valve letting fuel come in and fill the cell. When the cell was full the valve wouldn't let fuel in obviously. You could leave the fuel pump on since it was a "dead blow" w/ internal regulator (pump was like $350) PM me if you want more details. Hope that helps! Good luck...