Main Cap Girdle

I'm wondering if a girdle like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chev...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e61a5e731

really helps to stop main cap walking/fretting?

Do you have any experience with them?

 

hi!
i m currently building a blown alky big block wedge mopar,based on a stock cast iron block full of block filler:i m using a 3/4 inch thick (the thicker i found) girdle and caps(complete kit),for the reason you mentioned.it was either that or cross drilling the block for specific cross drilled caps:the stronger the better!
i bought it as a way to make a stock block stonger,but i do not know if that would be useful on a purpose made aftermarket block...

 

I have a buddy that ran 1 on a bbc. By the time he clearanced it there were some thin spots & the crank still ended up in the pan( main webbing came apart)

 

In the bb chevy the web in the mains were the problems..Dave

 

I have yet to break a Dart Big M or GMPP Gen VI. The Mark IV's we used to break usually starting from a head bolt hole and it traveled down the cylinder and we had one that started down by the rod bolt releif in the pan rail (probably releived too far to start with).

I'm looking to help out the Big M, it has the billet splayed caps and they have some marks of motion. Nothing horrible, but I'd rather be ahead of this game.

Anyone use the girdles that replaced all the caps, they are as thick as the caps and they also bolted into the oil pan bolt holes?

 

I bought two, one for a 3.50 stroke and one for 3.750. Both took a LOT of grinding to clear the rod bolts and the counter weights. Also no hole for dip stick if you use one. Then when puttimg it together the oil pump would not bolt up without cutting off the one rear "ear". A LOT of work for not much help I think. Have yet to run it but do not believe it is of much help except on semi stock sbc engines. Bob