Loose intake lots of alky in oil???

dont shoot me but just know getting to winter maintenance...what I got 3 days til racing season starts??

I found a ton of alky in the motor when changing oil (Lucas oil plug....it doesn't milk at all, stays separate. GOOD STUFF). I have checked my fuel system and can't find anything out of order. I shut fuel off and let engine die after run. I start back up and let it burn the dribbles. I blow out fuel system before I load car in trailer. When idling I always have fuel shut leaned so that engine is revved just a touch. In other words I think I go to great lengths to keep alky out of oil. Never found this much alky in oil change before. I mean probably a pint or 2.

Here's the question. I found my intake bolts loose too (I know that means I'm pinging the motor too, rolled new bearings in already). Could boost force alky into the lifter valley?

As mentioned above 2 days now till gators. Don't want to pull intake unnessisarily.

509 BBC big chief heads. Littlefield 1471 HHR. Hats/ports/kvalve etc.

Thanks ITA

 

I agree with Mike. FWIW, I always use a thin layer of silicone around the ports on both sides of the intake gasket to help keep the gasket from blowing out or leaking boost. This is especially important if the intake doesn't quite fit the heads perfectly because of deck height, milled heads, etc.

 

Dang it! I thought was on right track. Pulled intake and gaskets looked new. still siliconed in place.

 

We had this problem on a Hemi a few years ago, find out that the seal on the fuelpumpshaft was leaking.

 

Well thought we had this whooped based on checking intake gaskets and I now check the intake bolt tightness regularly. Car also seems to be running a lot more consistent this year than end of last...changed oil after 3rd race and found literally a gallon of alcohol in the 13 quarts of oil.

I inspected the fuel pump shaft area for corrosion (because I too have found that leaking in the past into the engine) at the beginning of season and didn't notice anything but I will take a closer look. Probably just change seal anyway. I have spare.

Bill Miller gave me call and advised that the rings were probably cooked. However the leak down didn't indicate major leakage. some 0% percent and all less then 10%. Is this the proper way to diagnose cylinder washing?

Thanks ITA

 

Mike,
How do you know if the idle mixture is adjusted right ?

Eric

 

I would definitely check your Bv and idle poppet.

For loose intake bolts, besides not detonating the motor, these are the best fix ever:

http://www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/wedge-locking/washers/introduction/

 

I agree with will I had a very old coil going bad. It's one of those things where it will still fire the engine but it doesn't have the juice to burn the fuel completely. I change could every 2 years no no matter what. From the minute a new coil fires an engine. The coil gets weaker and weaker. Why you think the pros sell them after a couple races???

 

good point here : how to check a bad from a good coil ? is the ohmmeter the only good option ?

 

I understand that replacing the coil is the only sure way to know for sure, but can an ohmmeter reading give you an indication that it is getting weak?

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I guess time to rering it anyway over the summer break. Also obviously my msd 10 stuff is getting old even though I haven't noticed it directly in my tune up. Only strip my blowers every couple seasons so that also kind of throws a rock in evaluating against historical runs. I don't really know the condition of the strips. I had to use my only spare coil last year so I guess I could try my grid. All those dang prochargers seem to be outrunning me with it.