Iron Block choices

I am currently unemployed and am trying to find a affordable way to go drag racing because I am dieing to go racing . I can't afford to buy a car or anything like that so will have to build something . Though engine choices are becomming an anoyance . I want something that wont just crack on me and I can't afford to go down the aftermarket block route or the alloy billet route . I have narrowed it down to some sort of a chev or if I get really really really lucky an iron hemi . But I can't afford to buy a new block so will have to buy used ones . But what ones will be good enough I am a hemi fan and would love to run one but with the way prices for blocks go with them that may be wishfull thinking . What good factory blocks that I may find used will be good for a low buck blown alchy deal or maybe blown gas if I really get desperate . I just don't want to buy something that will crack on me right of the bat . I have looked at what people ran back in the days of racing with factory iron blocks and sure they ran these things and ran them well but you never hear about how often they had to replace things . Any advice would be appreciated . I asked a while back about the aftermarket billet alloy stuff but those things just arent in my budget right now.

 

I would then stay away from blown gas. It's much more unforgiving on parts.

Whats your hp goal?

Blessings..........Ron Clevenger.

 

I am not worried about horsepower or rotating the earth not yet anyway , I just want to go racing .

 

Though an indication of what some of the iron blocks can handle would be handy .

 

Budget Blown Badboy!!!

Hey Willy!! Speaking from experience and seeing first hand what a "Factory" and when i say factory,i mean An "010" standard chevy block will handle i'm convinced anything over 1000HP is the limit! I've seen an old A model PSI on a 350ci engine at around 40 over(from memory) that actually pushed the crank out of the block!! so to speak!it lost oil pressure on a pass and rather than risk it,the guys took it home and found the no.2 webbing cracked right through with the studs still atached!! They went to a BOWTIE block and changed the capacity to 302ci for another class and never looked back,even at 50 over making close to 1300HP..........hope this helps in the way of small blocks anywayz!!! Jason.

 

pm

check your pm

 

Thanks for answering my question more answers would be handy .

 

Do yourself a favour and don't bother with old factory stuff... it will only cost you more. Have a look at this deal right here on ITA - in the classified section, on page 2, an engine being sold by "Legends Racing" - AJ481T complete manifold to pan, for the money they are asking, that is a good deal, and it is all top quality parts, and no, I don't know the seller. Or, try racinkjunk.com.

 

I don't have thousands to throw around guys . I can only afford to buy bits and pieces as I can afford them I just want to buy something cheap but usable that wont break on me and go racing . There is no way I can afford to buy a built engine not that I really want to I would rather put something together myself and build my own combination .

 

William, take a bit of advice. If you are unemployed, and don't have thousands to throw around, wait until you have some income, and save to buy everything at the same time. What you may be able to afford now, will be obsolete junk by the time you get to use it. This is a very expensive sport, so if you only think you can afford it, in reality you can't. How do I know? Been there, done that.

 

Yeah but I live in new zealand , People here aren't buying the latest and greatest part every week and arent running mid 5's every run . A 5 second alcohol run here is pretty rare . I am not wanting to go out there and win straigt away or rotate the earth . I just want to put something together and go racing . I will run a 6-71 blower if I have to as long as I am racing .

 

Iron Block Choices???

William,from reading all the posts here on this thread,i think speaking on behalf of everyone who's read or posted advice,the common denominator is the same! $$MONEY$$ This sport,(or addiction for some!) costs plenty,and as the old saying goes:SPEED COSTS MONEY,HOW FAST CAN YOU AFFORD TO GO? Keep savin' buddy we all have to at some stage!

 

No- Money

Most of us weren't born with a silver spoon. Go to the aces, talk to people and see if someone in the same position would like to partner with you. But be careful. Do your research. And I hope you don't have a family. This sport can bankrupt you in a heart beat. Good luck Don

 

I raced for two years on a 010 block with a factory 3.25 stroke crank, 331". I raced from 8.60 to 9.60 in a 3300# door car. When I blew it up (dropped an intake valve at 8400 rpm), the other cylinders looked perfect. No cracks, still mostly round. It was filled to the water pump holes for a little help.

I ran between 10 & 22#s of boost every pass. Had a blast.

Something to think of...on my stock blocks with blown alky, the oil would die quick. On my little M block, the oil stays so clean. I know the cyliders were moving on my 010 blocks big time.

Look for a used Dart block. They are awesome. Stay with like a little M or big M. all other chevy stuff fits. Don't get a raised cam or spread rail block.

 

Back when I started drag racing I built a 440" mopar wedge, because it was fairly cheap per cubic inch. I ran stock rods and crank, cheap TRW pistons and cheap edlebrock heads, I did run a roller cam so the valvetrain got cashy. I ran a stack style hilborn injection on alky, (no blower) and I went 9.90s in a 3000lb door car. If I had put some good rods in it I bet it would have took 15 or 20 lbs of boost.

I raced it 3 years, after over 100 passes I took it apart and it looked perfect inside, but I was ready to go faster so I retired the motor. Even pinching pennies, that 440 cost me 5 or 6 grand, but I bet I had more than $25,000 in the car by the time I bought a rear axle and tranmission and all those little things that it takes to get a car down the track. I guess the bottom line is... how fast do you want to go? If you want to be in the 9s you are gonna spend some money and trust me it gets way worse the faster you want to go.

 

Instead of buying a motor piece by piece save your money and buy a motor already complete. I know you said you don't have thousands to spend but you will be money ahead by purchasing a complete piece.

I remember when I wanted to get into drag boat racing and did not care what class I just wanted to be out there, my dad told me "if you don't have a minimum of $1000 a month to piss away then you can not afford to go racing"; Boy was he right and now I wish it ONLY cost $1000 a month.

 

Yeah I have thought about saving and buying something complete , but this may sound silly to some but I really would love to build my own combination over using someone elses combination .

 

Hey William,

Drag racing is mostly a sport for guys who like to go their own way, but when you're talking about combinations; some work well and some not so well to the point of blowing apart.

My sincere advise to you is to save your money and volunteer as crew for a while; you get to learn best practice (and who really knows what they are doing) and what works and what does not work.

The best part is that if you do your crew work diligently and as instructed the blow-ups will not come out of your pocket.

When you truly have the money to pay for your parts you will have a wealth of experience behind you so that your hard earned money does not get wasted.

Just my tuppence worth...

Jon

 

William,

I've been watching this thread closely and see that you are taking a lot of heat about money, or the lack of it! I certainly understand what you are saying and I totally agree with what you are trying to accomplish. I also agree with the other folks that if you are going to be competitive at all, .......... you need "more money"

You have stated that you cannot afford to "pony up" for a complete, full blown racing engine. You also said that you would rather put the whole engine thing together yourself. You are just trying to get some info on buying some good used parts that "should" hang in there for a while, letting you race. You are not looking to set world records.

I have done the same thing!
I put together a SBC, 4 bolt, stock block (truck motor) and put the good stuff inside. It took me nearly 8 or 9 months to gather up all of this stuff, but it finally came together

I have a 410 CI. SBC, 871 "street" blower (Weiand), Enderle Bird Injector and I am running methanol. I first put this motor in a 3300 LB. 86 S-10, tubbed with a 4 link. I ran a best of 9.11 at Bradenton (Florida), 1/4 mile track. It calculates that I had to be putting a little over 800 HP to carry this truck to that E.T. It didn't "blow up", so I am thinking that I am lucky, or good!

I just finished putting this motor in a 1700 LB 125" WB altered and have only taken it to the track one time. I had a few issues trying to get it to hook and it was over heating. It is going to be a "beast"! I'm going to have a blast. I already know that I am not going to be the fastest, I just want to race and have fun!

Keep all of this in mind. Hopefully you can put together something that will let you go out there and have fun. .......... That is supposed to be what this is all about!

Race Safe!