Gorr Barrel Valve

I will be using a Gorr barrel valve the next time I run my car, the motor is a 451 hemi, typical dragster, 206d, fat 5, 12-1 comp, runs in a comp class and is limited to 68% O/D, promod style sedan 2720lbs with lenco drive and chance convertor. My question is how would you set the metering valve up for a start and what are the benifits with a convertor, also has anybody running the lenco drive had temperature issues with the fluid or any problems with the pump, this thing runs real hot.
Thanks, Matt

 

I have ran the Lenco Drive for two years now in a Outlaw Promod and have tried evey type of fluid. Lenco said to use Mobil 1 and change every 20 passes well I did and it did not like it. The issues really is not enought fluid. I added a cooler not really to cool the fluid but to have more fluid. It Helped then I made a sheet metal billet rail pan that holds 2 more quarts and this is what really has saved the converter and fluid. Other than that it is a GREAT Trans.

 

Gorr Barrell Valve

matt don't know anything about the transmissions but the gorr barrell valve has been great to our customers. it allows setting the fuel gallonage at idle as well as stage which tailors your fuel system to your needs instead of having it spit lots of raw fuel out the pipes at stage but being hot at idle or flooding fuel at idle but high temps at stage it can all be set by twisting the adjustment screws. we have the gallonage figures online if you want to see them at www.rbssuperchargers.com type in gorr barrell valve or look under barrell valve section.

 

wouldnt the heat in the trans be relative to the converter selection? If the converter was too loose, that would cause the motor to drive thru it and cavitate the oil thus creating heat? Maybe incorrect rear end gearing and/or trans ratios/ tire size? Just a thought.

 

Thanks for the replies guys, Will, I have a timing computer and a six shooter, haven't used the six shooter yet and I take timing away from the motor in top gear at the moment, I've been launching at 5000rpm without any shake. The motor had 9.5 static and I have just changed the pistons to 12.1 so the motor will have a some more power. I don't have a flow meter, my data logger gives me fuel pressure after the barrel valve and egts, what temps are you looking for at stage, will i be able to set the barrel valve using real time with the trans brake engaged at launch RPM?
Have you tried using a 2 step to control launch rpm, I have and found it hurt my reaction time as I was watching the tach trying to get as close as possible to the selected rpm, wasn't game to go wot.
I will try the mobil fluid next meeting, have been using a full syn fluid, is okay on the first pass but starts to smell burnt after the 2nd run and is totalled on the 3rd, we are cooling the trans and convertor between runs. I was having some pump issues but we sorted it with extra clearance in the pump gears, I agree that the trans is very good and I think that the heat problems I have maybe that the convertor is to loose.

Regards, Matt

 

Hi Lorenzo, I run a steel browel can as weight isn't an issue for me, I would only run a ti can if I was desperate to save weight.
I ran on the weekend and the trans was slipping bad on the last run from start to finish, you run a heavy car like I do, we're you having slippage problems before you added the extra fluid. the car ran 6.77 the pinion was 7400 and the engine at 9500 when I clicked it 6.08 seconds into the run, usually the top gear would show 1.07 this run was 1.30 and from the info I have the diode will not slip so I can only think that the fluid has vapourised and the convertor is slipping due to lack of fluid. The convertor is a chance best you can buy unbreakable billet 2 peice thing.
Regards, Matt

 

Interesting your thoughts on the depth of the spout into the pump, I had all sorts of trouble at the start with the pump driving into the pump housing. I went though everthing, chance told me to disregard the set up instruction for the spout depth and set it flush with the outer face of the can, I didn't do it maybe I should, there is plenty of clearance and there isn't alot driving the pump. A couple of things I found when trying to sort the pump issue was the can was running out 56 thou, I made offset dowels in the block and set it perfect, had 9 thou runout on the reactor flex plate, machined it bolted to the crank, ended up with 4 thou runout on the spout.
The slip you are getting is it in the convertor not in the packs? I have heard that the regulator doesn't supply 250 psi to the pods fast enough, this is what I'm going to check by putting a gauge on the pods. The 2nd to third shift on my run is almost non existent on the data. I haven't got the tranny out yet will do it tomorrow.
Regards, Matt

 

I run Donovan/Jeffco , 3 speed set up , it's almost the same thing as Bruno/Lenco, and i have exactly the same problem with converter slippage . I bought a brand new Coan bolt together converter and i have the same problen than the previous race , first run everything is OK , second run 1 1/2 hrs later, more slip , third run 3/4 hrs later , i slip almost 2000 rpm at the end. This "Torque Link" contains 6-1/2 litres of oil , i'm presently modifying the link oil pan to hold 10 to 11 liters and put syntetic oil instead of Mercon 3.
I will let you know if it's OK next week
Claude

 

I ran a Bruno/Lenco setup, with a PTC converter and would see around 20% or more slippage. Lorenzo, I think your issue is in the converter, not the trans and as far as things moving around and losing pressure, I dont think that is likely. If Im not mistaken the pump is the first thing that gets engaged when installing the converter, then the stator lines up on the stator support then the input shaft engages the back of the converter. I made no other changes to my setup than to change to a Coan converter and dropped down to 5% slippage, which is pretty darn good for a converter! Look at how much RPM you lose during the gear change, if the pump/fluid pressure is the problem I would think it would be an issue for the entire run, especially on the starting line when the car accelerates the hardest. I think if the converter is setup right with a three speed you should have around 600-800 rpm drop at the shifts, any LESS than that say 400 or less than you may just need to change stators in the converter. I hope this helps guys! By the way, I've switched FROM a converter TO a clutch so Im sure I'll need some advice from ya'll!!

P.S Thanks Will Hanna for a great site and a true NO BS forums. Its great to come on here and not have all the "bench racing" Bull@#$% and bickering that goes on at some of the other sites, just real racers and real honest answers! I'm new to the blown alky stuff and I have found A BUNCH of usefull info on here!!