fuel pump size question

while we are getting to purchase a new or used fuel pump , wich brand is better & what size is should we start with also we dont have a clue on nossell jets , where to start out @

 

WATERMAN MAKES THE BEST PUMPS, IN MY OPINION

GORR IS GREAT FOR THE SYSTEM REQ'TS

RBS CAN GET YOU EVERYTHING AND SAVE YOU SOME BUCKS TO BUY FUEL !!

http://rbssuperchargers.com/

 

thats a really big ? becuase thats the whole enchilada , the biggest myth is bigger makes you go faster "FALSE" @ 97 % the smaller the pump the easier the car is to tune , if you buy a 42 gallon waterman it is flowed @ 3000 rpm pump speed " cam speed" = 6000 rpm engine rpm , so @ the hit @5000 engine rpm "2500 pump " it has 35.0 gallons & you only need 26.50 to 27.50 , so you are 8.50 over what you need & the waterman pump is "linear " so as the engine rpm goes up so does the gallons & you have to get rid of more & more , so stay with a smaller pump & keep it simple ,
the less you have to return to the tank the eaiser it is to tune , you will also have a main pill and make it a small one , also you will need a fuel regulater or " bdk valve" to keep the fuel flow to the engine even , as the pump creates more gpm & pumps that are bigger than 40-42 gallons should be ran with 2 bdks & then the its eaiser to keep the fuel flow to b/v even & control the return use 2 as a pump sizer run a -8 line to 2 bdk"s
with a y block set both the same & bleed off air @ the same time , but again if you have a smaller pump you only need 1 to do the same amount of work as 2 & less parts less failures


example watermans flows pumps @ 6000 rpm engine = 3000 PUMP SPEED
rage/ settels / nuke @ 8000 =4000 pump speed

example = 48.01 settels pump take 48.01 divided by 4000 max pump speed =0.0120025 x2500 rpm pump speed @ 5000 engine speed =30.0 gallons
fuel wanted @ hit 26.50 gallons you need to get rid of 3.50 gallons @ 375 psi
thats around a .094 jet approx, start between there & 100 jet run the car to 300' & see what kind of data you get



THE TUNE UP
48 galll settels or nuke pump OR 38 GALLON WATERMAN
nossells in the heads as follows
1 50/55 3 50/57 5 50/57 7 50/55
2 50/58 4 50/57 6 50/57 8 50/55
manifold
42 in all to start

set your bdk to `crack @ 375lbs

MAIN PILL ON A -8 80LBS CHECK START @ #95 THRU 100 JET
THAT SHOULD GET YOU STARTED & with the clutch info that will take care of any blown car in the other lane , free of charge

 

call don www.gerardot.com he is a great guy to deal with, and is very reasonable. he is making fuel pumps now and they are really nice and alot cheaper than most others.

 

By the name I would think a-fuel car ,but there are fuel guys out there that specialize. You can't go wrong on Tom Conway with a blower or injected. Gerardot is a goot roots source, if it's a screw, I'd look for Conway, Gorr, or any other well known screw blower system.

 

this is an a/fuel car

it sounds like i was just given a really good awnser from racewrench & after some checkin that is a pretty accurate information session , for a crew of newbies to a/fuel , after pricing around with tuners, & builders it seems like a great start . for the price , some people want 3500.00 bucks to tell ya that & only if we buy everything from them , so we are all ears , & it sounds like
& real competitive combo , note we have made alot of calls to the fuel gu roos & they say they dont know much about an a/fuel combo & call , well anyway you get the picture , thanks for all your help ,

 

tuners

Will,
Who would be your nominations for the top 3 or 4 tuners for hire for blown alcohol
using a Roots? Preferably on the east coast.
TC

 

Will is right!!!
Don't try the trial by fire method, pay someone who knows what they are doing.
Years ago there used to be a saying, (want to make a small fortune in drag racing? start out with a big fortune !!)

 

A few years ago Mark Hentges hired a former top fuel whiz to set his car up for a-fuel. The whiz bang tuner killed four motors in a row testing the car. Killed them to the point they weren't fixable. Will is absolutely right- get a name brand tuner. It is in his and your best interests for your car to run good and safely. Guys who build grenades aren't too well thought of.

 

I agree 100%.

 

Dont forget Howard Moon, he's on the east coast also.

 

thank you mr. hanna

thanks for the advice , & being new thats something we didnt think about , we have contacted , one of your referals
& are working on a base line , but i will say , that post , was very close to what we will be paying for. & the clutch was right on line with our shopping list from our new consaltant but again thank you for your site #1 a great place to get info , on , news , parts , racing , & help

 

the fuel system

also make sure your idle return - 8 checks are set @ 80 lbs & also the main jet the same 80 lbs , when putting car on high side , on the jacks , make sure the main fuel presure stays under 120 psi if it gets over that lower the two idle checks down from 80lbs decreasing that check presure is what lowers the main fuel presure , also make sure on high side that the gpm is no more than 1.3 gpm , while holding break on high side , simulating stage @ tree with clutch out , if you have less thats ok for starting out with new tune -up 1.2 to 1.3 is fine, just dont exceed 1.3 also @ your dist. block @ rear of manifold look for nossle pres , of 17-19 psi , with 42 jets in manifold on all cyl,, & use vented nossell bodies on all manifold jets
alky & nitro , a good starting point on alky jets is low to mid 30"s, & make sure you have a well vented alky tank , so the car starts easy & will run smooth @ a low rpm , if you dont use vented nossell bodies you will have a tough time starting , & getting it to idle smooth , & when starting push in clutch to free up engine , & to give the starter a break one the car fires up give it a minute to stabalize & then have driver release clutch & let tires roll
that also builds up heat quicker , & thats how your gonna do it on the starting line any way , with the driver pushing in the clutch until he or she is gonna pull up & get into the puddle for the burn out a throttlle stop is a must on a a-fuel car for burn out dont try it with out one , youll be real sorry later there is only one john force , it dosent take much to do one , the
standard is 9/64 of blade opening @ injector use a drill bit or allen wrench
to set it & get a nice clip , R.B.S superchargers sells a nice one , it will save you alot of $$$ & look @ the competion the way they do burnouts
just do the same thing everytime, & make the clutch the same everytime ,
there is a whole lot more to it also, when you hire a consultant , they will teach you how much fuel presure to apply when switching over from alky
to nitro, , & how much fuel presure for a burnout, & when to trim it back
when to step off the clutch for staging & go on highside , that is where a real a- fuel consultant will help your program & most of them drove @ one time or another & that will really help you out ,