crower pedal clutch question

i have a 10.5 crower pedal clutch and i can only get .070 air gap before the fingers touch the hat , i have 702 between the hat and donut and i have double checked it with a vernier, there is .140 if i check the hat and donut with feeler guages.......i think i should be able to get more air gap than .070 and set it with the pedal stop....all new pack .thanks peter

 

Pedal Clutch Clearance

I am not sure about your set up but if your clutch has stands that hold the hat in position, maybe adjusting your stands in some might give you the clearance you are looking for. Are you using the drop-in depth indicator Crower suggests? I'd say call Crower.

 

Curious

Just curious, why do you want more than .070 gap?

 

i know that .070 is enough air gap , i just thought that i should be able to have more adjustment , peter

 

You should. Call Roger at Crower.

 

thanks guys

 

Yes you should be able to put more than .070

 

bob at moliari said the fingers are most likley worn , i can set it to .720 to compensate , still need to get new fingers.......peter

 

Clutch Fingers

Just some FYI: I burned up a good set of clutch arms (fingers) because the throw out bearing had gotten enough clutch dust in it. Yes, it was a sealed bearing, or at least what they called it. NOW I put in a new throw out bearing every time I pull the clutches out. Arms are about $300, the bearing is about $18.00.

 

As any TA/FC guy will tell you, we had our clutch out after every run. Part of the service procedure was to check the throw out bearing.

You're right, they're cheap.

 

There are two areas to be concerned about. One is the wear on the pad area where the lever hits the throw out bearing and the other is pivot axle wear which drops the arm if worn enough which can screw up the lever angle causing the clutch to react differently according to your counter weight expectations over time. It also effects the amount of adjustment you can get out of it if it gets bad enough.

When replacing the levers you need to back load them as you tighten the allen bolt so the lever, axle and insert into the hat all line up and the levers move freely. If you don't the levers will be bound up and the clutch won't release correctly. I only say this because it's amazing that I've seen people that don't pay attention to this.

 

thanks guys......i will pull it apart and have a closer look........peter

 

Have you found any of the bearing manufactures to be better than the other? Aetna, Timken, National?

 

That's what I was woundering