Crank Hub Gauling Fix

have switched crank bolt assy , from rcd , to new automan style & installed per instructions have removed 2 hubs from from 2 seperate engines & not one scratch & they both came off with NO HASSLE finally!! a true fix
& i used steel hubs & saved alot of $$$ so if your having those issues
try this bolt assy, works on blown cars just as well automans # 530-885-8815

 

Thks for the info!

 

I had the same problem with gaulding of crank hub. Found a product called Silver Goop and it takes only a small amount to lubricate the crank and hub.
It completely eliminated the problem. It is a product used to lub couplers on industrial turbans.

 

you got a part # or location we can buy this silver goop?

 

gauling of balancer assembly

finally got a fix on gauling the crank hub, now how about the fixing of gauling the adapter and spacer between the hub,balancer and starter cog.. a/fuel
after a run checking torque on the six bolts and when removing starter cog to check crank bolt finding gauling on the front face of spacer that pokes threw the front of ati balancer. balancer will turn on spacer but is a problem removing it from the spacer due to the gauling.
any suggestions or different spacers that will eliminate this time consuming task of getting the balancer off ??? thanks

 

We tried everything for years. Then we found a 4 ft. long pipe and lots of grunt. That stopped the galling problem for good. Mike gets the torque wrench award for the day.

 

Mike:

300 pounds or a 10 foot cheater bar won't stop the galling. Been there, done that.

What (sort of) works for us is what you said plus...instead of using antiseize...use red locktite. Clean the outside of the crank snout and the inside of the crank hub with brake cleaner and use a moderate portion of the red stuff on both including the 1/4" square key stock. The red locktite sets up and fills the voids to keep the movement to a minimum (which causes the galling). Titanium hubs help a bunch, too, if you want to go that route.

RG

 

between hub & balancer

if using a rcd spacer "alum" type dont just rely on the six starter dog thru bolts to the hub assy, drill & tap the spacer using the torx plus bolts supplied by ati , & that will keep it from moving back & fourth = more clamp load
this is just my oppinon & what worked for me guys every car is different

 

Mike:

The locktite is in addition to 300 lbs+ torque. Detonation really screws up the hub no mtter how tight the bolt or how toght the interference fit is. We have no problems now.

In the "old" days (1998-1999) when the blowers were 125 over and the only bottom pulley available was the one the size of a salad mixing bowl for the 13.9/14MM belts. The harmonics and leverage from the pulley trashed the front of the crank. There were some bugs that have been subsequently worked out of that deal. Pete Swayne was driving for me then and whenever he shifted 2-3 at 9,800 to 10,000 RPM the center of the belt would get so hot it would melt. We were replacing a $250.00 blower belt every run but the car an good.

RG

 

Something You Can Also Try On The Alum. Spacer Is To Have It Hard Anodized. That Will Help Considerably With The Galling

 

balancer to spacer fix

"if using a rcd spacer "alum" type dont just rely on the six starter dog thru bolts to the hub assy, drill & tap the spacer using the torx plus bolts supplied by ati , & that will keep it from moving back & fourth = more clamp load
this is just my oppinon & what worked for me guys every car is different"


thank you for the input on the gauling on the face of the spacer wich made it diffacult to remove the balancer. i will try this out.
just a thought ...what about a titanium spacer?? is there one available ???
thanks for the inputs. slick...

 

I'm Sure Someone Would Make One But The Price Would Be Absurd. I Would Look At Doing A Steel One. I Think The Front Of The Motor Could Use A Extra Little Bit Of Weight To Try And Dampen The Motors Harmonics.

 

I tried torquing the bolt to 300 lbs, and still had the problem with transfering metal. Was told by my crank grinder that it was caused by detenation and the solution was to take it off after each race. He also is a crewman on a TF car and suggested the locktite and extra torque using a high strength stud instead of a bolt. After using the Silver Goop and extra torque on standard RCD bolt I made 25 laps testing on an A-fuel car and removed the hub with a standard puller. ( I had made a hydraulic puller and used it in the past ) Had absolutely no metal transfering and had the same results all this year.
The name of the product is Silver Goop and it is made by Crawford Fitting Co. of Solon, Road, Ohio. You can buy it from an industrial supplier that sells Swedgelock fittings.
Bob Holley