Crank hub galling

Anyone else having this problem/anyone have a cure! We run the RCD cover w/crank support but have ISSUES with the crank hud galling so bad it has to be replaced every season?! We use steel (can,t afford the titanium) unless the titanium lives longer??

 

Ti hubs cured my problems....also using lock-tite (between the hub and crank) helped as well...we also changed to a spendy crank bolt....

Kevin

 

Tim
never tried the locktite
but we never seize the daylights out of ours when we put it on
ours fits so tight we have a really hard time getting it on and off

 

Dad said they should spline it 10 years ago! anyone know if it is working out?

 

I agree, Ti hub solves the problem with red loctite. Pulley support as well. They come on and off like butter. The loctite will come out like powder. Seems to lubricate the parts. Wouldn't want to leave one on forever but the difference in metal stops the transfer. Norm Drazy explained why once. I just know it works. Ti is cheaper in the long run. Good grade 8 bolt torqued to 275 ft lbs plus works with the pulley support. Torque in the car if your engine stand is flimsy.
Dale

 

Had this problem real bad. Had to make a 30 ton hydraulic puller and then have the crank snout chromed and chunk hub. Found some stuff that stopped it with good bolt and plenty tight. Its called silver goop. Made by swedge lock. Its is used on stainless couplers for gas turbins. Solved my problem. Hub comes right off even after 20 runs with no gaulding.

 

Make sure your keys aren't worn, as I think we had problems with that once where the keys were a little worn and that allowed for a little movement I guess. We also use the Loctite trick, works really good. We run steel hubs.

 

Red Loctite the inside of the hub and crank snout in and around the hex keys. It's your friend. Then torque the bolt to 300+ pounds. Detonation is the number one cause, though.

 

Titainium hub, red loctite, and a top shelf grade 9 bolt. If you have a trusty crankshaft, click the torque wrench to 400 lbs. This isnt something I read or heard, I have done it. Bryant Crank, Ti Hub, Good Bolt, and somebody crazy enough to stand on a 6 foot torque wrench. This puts a huge amount of pinch on the hub and takes some of the stress away from the other mechanical forces holding the hub on.

Good Luck...

 

crank hub fix

Its the bolt & washer , thats causing the issue , bolts with intergraded washers , dont let the bolt torque up , & apply enough clamp load on the hub & it actually gets loose cuasing it to gaul , onto the crk , if u use an independant washer & bolt assy, like a rod bolt combo , it lets the bolt torque up to a much greater torque spec , keeping the hub tight, & crk from gualing , the fix was discoverd my AUTOMAN & he sells a replacement, FOR AROUND 40 BUCKS , & IT HAS SAVED ME ALOT OF TIME & MONEY also you can then just buy a cheaper steel hub , instead of tit & no locktite needed
this is a race proven track tested , comes with instruction sheet, once you install one you will understand the concept,
automan 530-885-8815

 

I set my reversble torque wrench to it's max which is 150 pounds and put it in the blower snout. I have another guy on a breaker bar holding the crank hub bolt with the engine in the car. I tighten the crank hub bolt by ratcheting the torque wrench on the blower snout with the blower belt on. Once the wrench clicks I relax it. Then the guy holding the breaker bar (with a cheater bar) pulls up on the breaker bar on the crank hub bolt until the torque wrench on the blower snout pops again. After that, we give it another 1/8TH turn. I've checked it with a higher number torque wrench (which I don't own) and it appears to be about 325+ pounds the way we do it. This works pretty well because our blower overdrive is 92% which creates the leverage to do it. With a titanium hub we have no galling issues whatsoever.

 

Just curious, do A/Fuel engines gall crank hubs? Seems like having a supercharger drive belt bolted to the snout is the culprit compounded by detonation.

 

Tim, spend the extra money for the ti hub. You definately should have ti with your roots setup there is so much more load than with a psi(screw). I agree with Randy with the red loctite, it fills voids around the keys and makes everything that much more solid. As he said, detonation is killer it puts ungodly torsional forces on the crank especially through the snout trying to run backwards and flexing.We ran an RCD nose support but after seeing how easy that whole setup flexes through those 3/8 bolts and long aluminum stands it's hard to imagine it does much good. By the way, thanks for getting that alternator for my truck up in Martin 3 years ago, it was a lifesaver to get us home on time.......Dan

 

Crank Bolt

If You Want To See A Pic Of Bob's Grade 9 Bolt Check Out Rbssuperchargers.com Under Crank Hubs We Have Them In Stock For The Center Flange Rcd Hub And The Standard Hubs As Well.

 

Randy, to answer your question the gaulding is an issue with A-fuel engnes.
I think Bob Auto came up with his grade 9 bolt and washer to solve the problem on these engines. We use his bolt now but as a precaution. I'm telling you that the silver goop solved all our crank gaulding problems. Seems like it is to simple of a solution I know but it works.

 

Thanks guys, the load from the roots, voids and detonation all make sense. And yes, I do think I have detonation issues also (working on that too!) I will be the guinea pig and put Loctite on one motor and anti-sieze on the other and let ya all know what worked best...Good luck to all in 07

 

Chicago

That's one of the races that stays with a person for a very long time and get re-told many time.

Best wishes for the New Year.

 

just wondering
if the crankshaft material may have a factor in this
material/hardness
softness means galling