Blower Help

Discussion in 'PSI Superchargers Tech Questions' started by KDavidson, May 13, 2006.

  1. KDavidson

    KDavidson Member

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    Hey guys, I've recently just purchased a rebuilt Littlefield retro 6-71 blower. I went to install the snout today, and I have a VERY hard time turning over the blower. Now I've never dealt with a stripped (both teflon and nylatron) blower before, only street blowers.
    Are these things supposed to spin freely?
    By just putting my torque wrench in the 1/2" square drive of the snout, it takes 50 ft/lbs to get this thing to spin!
    It does have the spray lube coating on the inside, could this be binding things up? If so, whats the best way to wash it off the rotors and inside of the case?
    I'd like to get this thing running ASAP, so all help is greatly appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Keith
     
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  2. hemi altered 378

    hemi altered 378 Blown Altered

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    that sounds a little tight, but whatever you do don't wash that lube off. you definately need that, and it will help the blower live a little longer before you have to re-strip it. are you checking it with the blower on the car? turning the motor, or just the blower?
     
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  3. Les Mellows

    Les Mellows New Member

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    TIGHT IS BETTER THAN LOOSE...... in most cases

    Make sure nothing is binding , check the front cover has oil in it . Put it on the car without the hat on it and spin it over on the starter. If all looks good , install the hat and fuel system and enjoy. I would rather see it at 40# next time you rebuild it but 50# is not unheard of. Any other info don't be afraid to Call Littlefield' they are good people.
     
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  4. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    Who restriped or rebuilt it? Did they think it was too tight? Retriped blowers are pretty tight.
     
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  5. ITS IN MY BLOOD

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    freshly stripped blowers tend to be on the tight side.
    ive watched a few teams have to use a 5 lb mallot to knock
    the rotors back into the case, be shure to run a little less
    overdrive than normal on the first couple of passes so you can see
    what kind of blower pressure its devoloping, then bring back the overdrive.
    you dont want to pop the burst panal or relief plate untill the teflon and ny
    have had a chance to wear in. it will have great sealing at first and then a little less.

    and if you spin the motor around make sure you spray more lube into it.
     
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  6. secondwindracing

    secondwindracing top alcohol

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    mert and lee has done all of my blowers...and yes they are VERY TIGHT and never any problems with great boost..them guys know blowers..after a few passes it will loosen up
     
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  7. eli

    eli Banned

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    Here's what i suggest you do ,, after you follow Les Mellows advice, put your injector and fuel system on , get a quart bottle of w/d 40 and run the motor on it till the bottle is empty, this will lube and lap the rotors into the case and the blower will last a lot longer, if you don`t have a hole in your injector blades take a hat nozzle out and plug up the end and put the w/d 40 in through the hole in the hat. that's 40 years of running a blower advice. ;)
     
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  8. Will Hanna

    Will Hanna We put the 'inside' in Top Alcohol
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    prizm spray gel

    what most supercharger mfg's recommend now days is prizm spray gel. i think rbs carries it. it's a teflon lubricant that not only lubes the rotors but also helps seal it, creating more boost. wd 40 works, but now psi recommends prizm for the first start up instead of wd 40.

    you can use too much wd 40. i know of a team several years ago that put so much wd 40 through a blower it actually hurt the motor.

    i could be wrong for roots...have very little exp with those blowers.
     
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  9. Les Mellows

    Les Mellows New Member

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    I would highly recomend don"t do this ..... In my experience the gel lube you have on the rotors will not wash off with alcohol, that is the goal. This should be retouched after each weekend and it is sufficient lube for the blower rotors.
    Using wd40 will give a false reading on the plugs and it acts like a solvent in the blower not as a lube , Years and Years and Years ago it was used to lubricate the blower as it was combustible and alcohol will move it (thus being a solvent more than a lubricant in this case) and would not detonate when sprayed in liberally as the old folk used to do ( ie: Terenzio Sr. AKA -eli) If a blower is prepped right and the measurements are correct you don't have to lap them , they are race ready !
    another note use good lube in the front on the gears and don't relieve the pressure in the front case until it is ready to strip again .
    Keep gellin, and return the blower to who you trust not the cheapest guy that will pull strips.
     
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    Last edited: Jun 4, 2006
  10. eli

    eli Banned

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    And there you go, Les,Will, I never heard of that lube stuff, so you see, even us OLD guys can learn from you KID`S , by the way Les, how much do you charge to haunt a house::::::::: 18 rooms??just KIDing.:eek: :D :D
     
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    Last edited: May 16, 2006
  11. KDavidson

    KDavidson Member

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    Thanks to all for the replies!
    After speaking with many folks and the gentleman I purchased it from, it's just that I'm not used to a competition style blower. I've always run unstripped blowers before. This just took me by surprise to be so hard to turn over. It does have the spray lube in it and I'll keep on lubing it.
    Thanks...Keith
     
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  12. blownzoom440

    blownzoom440 New Member

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    good info

    i just got a teflon stripped 8-71 from theblowershop and feel the prisim will help in my case also so thanks for the info.i was wondering how long it would take to break in the teflon!mine is for a race only aplication.excuse me for butting in.
    thanks!
     
    #12
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2006
  13. RBS

    RBS Authorized Merchant

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    Teflon Blower

    The Prisim Will Be Good For Your Blower And It Should Be Broken In After The First Warm Up Of The Motor. It Still May Be A Little Tight But Will Be Broken In.
     
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