The Clutch vs. power vs less power

Whats your opinion? Not changing anything on the clutch, Just tune the engine for more power, the clutch locks up more?, or tune for less power, the clutch slips more?

 

alcohol or nitro?

Nitro, more clutch. Need the load. I like to load the alcohol motor too. Does great things for boost on our tad car.

 

Could one of you guys explain that to one of my PS teams for me?

 

What about with a slider clutch or hardly any base and alot of centrifugal? Could more power (without adding clutch) raise the rpm quicker and lock the clutch up to fast and spin the tire?

example: with a japanesee go fast sunbeachee ( turbo subaru )
taking the free play out of the pedal allows just enough clutch slip to get the wheel speed up until turbo spools up and flexes the cable bracket/pedal mount?firewall? and locks up the clutch.
with freeplay its a turd and wont even turn the tire for a couple hundred feet. zero freepedal and it'll haul*** and leave black the whole way!!!

 

You have to remember that you need more plate load to compensate for the higher horsepower/torque unless you're making the increased horsepower 1,000 or 2,000 RPM's higher than your previous run.

If you were tuned dead nuts where you want to be, getting good slip and recovery on the shifts and you were happy with your 60ft, throwing more power at it will make it easier to drive through the clutch. And as I'm sure you've all experienced: Too Much Slip = Too Much Heat = Discs may as well be made of Teflon = Heat shield and floater warping.

Turbo Cars are some of the hardest to run clutches on because of that spool up factor. I've been dealing with a guy running a 4 cyl on M1 with a huge turbo, 5-spd Lenco and Front wheel drive. Car leaves the starting line @ 32PSI, by the time he's hitting 3rd he's up to 70PSI. They claim it's about a 600-700hp difference from where they leave the line to when they hit the 1/8th. So here's what happens, with a no torque 4cyl, they either leave the line good and blast through the clutch down track or they grab the motor at the start and hope they can recover down track.

 

Will, it is almost impossible to add power, clutch, and gear ratio without changing tire pressure, wheelie bar height, adding 10 lbs to the weight bar and throwing on more stickers. Otherwise you are just chasing your tail.

 

T. ; exactly right, but also add (while rubbing your hands together) the two most dangerous words in drag racing
"WATCH THIS"!!!

 

thats funny

all right Bob. I can picture a dozen guys from the past doing exactly that..you've brought out a well needed smile to this old timer!( he says ringing his hands)
Tommy..I was just thinking about you. will we be seeing you out this year?I stopped in to see Marc Rowe during the holidays but missed you.

 

Bob, you get funny looks from drivers when you say that out loud.

Bill, I will be in Gainesville with Jay and the guys. Hope to see you there.

Tom

 

I think that's why we call it a tune up, the combination of all the venerable working together to be able to rotate the earth.

 

Its 4wd ; even works on NA pancake 6's . Go rent yourself a subaru and take the freepedal out .Its got to be more than a second.

What if there's a 5135? in the pack, shouldn't it weld itself together?
Im not saying go put a prostock valve spring on your funnycar clutch pedal but doesn't sliding the clutch put you in the powerban quicker?

 

putting a 5135 in the pack works to a degree, but you have to remember that the aggression of the 5135 will be working at the hit as well as the big end. If you're already at the bottom of the clutch window to get off the line, putting a 5135 in the pack will grab the motor.

Sliding the clutch is exactly what you need to keep the motor in it's powerband until you've built up the wheel speed to lighten the load on the input shaft to where it doesn't pull the motor out of the powerband by going 1:1. The problem is that there is a point of too much slip where the disc pack gets too hot to recover at all.

 

Very Well Put!

 

Sure $$$$$$