Chrysler Wedge Main Cap

Discussion in 'PSI Superchargers Tech Questions' started by jclay, Dec 28, 2008.

  1. jclay

    jclay New Member

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    Hi guys have a problem with an oil leak at the rear main cap. Main cap has an o ring that runs from the top and down the side. Running a callies crank and indy maxx block. Anyone had a similar issue before? Anyone got any ideas on how to stop the leak? Everything is brand new. Never been run before. Oil leak is occurring after we warm the engine up.
    Any help is greatly appreciated.
    Thanks John.
     
    #1
  2. thjts

    thjts New Member

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    Cross Section of O-RIng

    Hi John,

    This might sound silly, and you've probably already checked, but are you using the correct cross-section-size o-ring? Is it possible you may have a metric one in there that is slightly smaller than the correct one?

    Just a thought.
    Paul.
     
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  3. Bottlefed

    Bottlefed New to Blowers

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    Since no one else has replied, let me add my limited experience.

    I assume you are using the solid block , I have not had experience with the solid version of the INDY block but I assume from lookiing at the pictures of it that is uses a combination rear main cap and rear main seal housing. If this is the case it will have some type of passage for the oil from the rear main bearing to flow back into the sump, this passage will of course have to be open (passage will have to be cast()drilled properly) and be free of sealer.

    If all of this is good then the side grooves of the main on every block I have seen use a proprietary seal assuming that the correct seal is in place then prior to installing rear main cap you need to clean all of the surfaces with brakcleen to remove all oil and when you install the main cap you need to place a small amount of silicone ( the Rightstuff, Hondabond or equivalent ) to the corners where the cap and where the block come together, this is the point where you usually experience leakage.

    After installing the pan and assembling the motor you can pressurize the motor to a couple of pounds and if its leaking then there is no point in putting it back into the car.

    Also if you have a shitty feeling about the leak, while you have it apart I would clean the block thoroughly and apply soap to the outside of the rear of the block and direct high pressure compressed air against the inside of the block, a friend of mine had a wet INDY block and it leaked coolant into the crankcase and oil into a coolant passage...hopefully yours is just a routine leak at the corners of the cap and block.


    Hope this helps, and I am sure many others will post with there suggestions who have more experience than me.

    Richard Gavle
     
    #3
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2008
  4. jclay

    jclay New Member

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    Thanks for the help guys.
    We run an iron block due to rules in Aus but all same as solid block with seal part of the rear main cap. Cross bolted rear cap. Does anyone know how much crush should be on the actual seal from the crank? Or what diameter groove there should be in the block?
    Once again thanks for the help.
    John C
     
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  5. moparbob47

    moparbob47 New Member

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    rear seal leak

    i havent had that problem yet,.i use the orange silicone + the fiber gasket for the sides of the rear seal bridge-(im also using the std. mopar block yet:eek:)
    if all else fails for you,.there is a rear bearing that has a diagonal groove to relieve pressure back intowards the engine side instead of forcing out the rear,.
    havent run them myself,.but have heard good reviews about them.--another question,.are you using the billet rear seal bridge or the cast aluminum one?--
    another thought,.i've had to mill my mating surface down a smidge (it wasnt fitting squarely to the block,i use a brass feeler gauge to check that before i put the pan on)--well thats all i have to add at the moment---good luck
    Bob
     
    #5

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