Dry Sump Need Help

How much does a dry sump actually help on a 451 BAE Fat w/PSI? Which pump would you go with P/P or Titian or etc.

 

It depends on what kind of oil pan you have. Most alcohol funny cars run a dry sump because there isnt enough room for a deep pan. So I can load the dry sump tank with 16 quarts and the motor doesn't run out of oil. As for a performance advantage check out Bill Jenkins building a small block book. He talks in there about a 30-40 HP gain with a dry sump over a wet sump. His theory is rotating the crankshaft and rods through a big puddle of oil is a parasitic drag on HP. With a dry sump the pan should be close to dry so no resistance to rotation there for the rotating assembly.
A big problem with top alcohol motors is getting the oil to drain back into the pan. High viscosity oil, short run times, means not enough time to drain the motor back to the pan. During a run the valve covers and lifter valley fill with oil, starving the motor when the pan runs low but by the time you coast to a stop it all drains back refilling the pan. So you can have a pan full of oil and burnt bearings when you get it back to the pits. A dry sump helps to eliminate that possibility but it does add weight with a tank, lines and a bigger pump. I don't have any experience with the Titan pump but I have used the Plueger and lately a Peterson pump. Both have worked well and Steve Plueger is great to deal with. You can even get the fittings and lines to plumb the system from him. Dave Germain

 

I ran a system 1 dry sump pump on my alcohol dragster 451ci fathead psi etc, it did help bearing life and made the oil pressure more stable, but i still wasnt that impressed with the whole setup, i wouldnt actually call it a dry sump more of a damp sump, everytime we fired the car you would have to drain the pan and refill the tank, after your typical 2-3 min warm up there would always be 6-9 quarts left in the pan, even thought the pump had 1/4 larger gears in the scavange section it just couldnt get the oil back quick enough, after a run you would have up to 14 quarts in the pan, we ran 20 quarts over all in the tank and used to start with all the oil in the tank and none in the pan. I think the main problem is the oil isnt getting to the pickup fast enough, with a proper dry sump setup you can have up to 6 scavange setions and 1 pressure so you can pull oil from 6 different points in your engine, and if you seal the engine off properly and can actually create a vacuum yes there will also be power in it to. I would suggest you check out dailey engineerings website, they have a cool 5 stage system which i have just purchased for my car, its a billet pan which a belt driven 4 stage scavange pump bolts to, it comes with a mandrel, belt and pulleys to suite a blown engine, it has a single -20 fitting to send oil back to the tank, the there is a single stage pump which mounts in the std position on the block to feed from the tank to the motor, ill be running it in a couple of weeks but its the best deal ive see so far when it comes to dry sump on a hemi, its not cheap but i believe it will be well worth the investment.

 

Thank You

Thank yall for the info topalky511 and Dave

 

dry sump

topalky511 i had the same problem in a NFC and what it did to fix it was vent the dry sump tank separately i put a second puke tank on and that was it. the problem is the the crank case pressure is forced through the frame rail and the dry sump tank is vented through the same frame rail and so when the motor is running the crank case pressure goes into the dry sump tank before it goes back to the puke tank and it creates an air lock in the dry sump tank and will let the oil out of the tank but is then pressurized and the pump does not make enough pressure on that side to overcome it so the oil just stays in the pan. so now my system 1 pump works just fine what is put in the pan before the run is there after

 

ran one for awhile and went back to a wet sump..Dave
www.myspace.com/daveloweswr