Does my car seem slow for the combo ????

Tell me what you guys think... I am building a new engine, but here are the specs from the last one.

My car weighs 2900 pounds with driver...
It hooks from 1.10 to 1.16 sixty foot times...
33x16.5 Tires...

I am running a 2 speed glide at this time.

The Engine was a 548" Standard Deck BBC.
Bowtie block which was pretty tired. It had seen some main walk, and had one or two head stud holes repaired. Block was filled with hard block.

4.25" Stroke Ohio Crankshaft
BME 426 Rods
Arias 11.5 to 1 pistons
Dart 360 Heads Ported and Flowed to 410 @ .800
Harold Brookshire .810 lift camshaft, Jessel Rockers, springs were 340# closed, 1000# or so Open.
Intake is a custom competition blower intake.
Blower is a 14-71 Littlefield High Helix with the Pie shaped opening.
40% overdrive and 38 Pounds of Boost.
Nitro Barrel Valve, 16 Injectors. We are running it a little rich, but safe.

Now I boke two rods in this motor a couple weeks ago due to an oiling issue... But this combo was used for at least 5 years and ran in the 7.60's to 7.70's in the 1/4, and 4.80's to 4.90's in the 1/8th.

This seems very slow to me compared to other cars with similar engine combos... I just read about a car over on Inside Top Alcohol which ran in the 6.30's with a PSI blower and Dart 360's @ 2700 Pounds. I also just saw an old chevy at a nostalgia race running in the 4.60's @ 3000 pounds, Dart 360's and a 10-71.



So right now I am in the process of building my new engine. I am running the same heads, cam, intake, blower and injection. Compression ratio is going to stay at 11.5 to 1.

The Block is a Solid Aluminum Rodeck 481T. It will either be 526" or 533" depending on how far I go on the bore. Crankshaft is a LA Kryptonite Billet, and Rods are Brooks 65 with Hemi wrist pins.

I am planning on running 40% over which should be again in the high 30's for boost.

I am changing my valve spring combo with a really trick set... They are capable of over 400# Seat Pressure, and well over 1200# open.


Should I see some improvements besides in the weight removed from the old bowtie block to the new aluminum one...

How much weight should be taken off with the new block?

Either way, the old motor was launched at 3000, shifted at 8000, went thru the traps in the quarter at 8300 @ 183mph.

Let me know what you think.... I think I should be going faster than 7.60's... Maybe it is the powerglide that is slowing me down????

 

We run a high speed bypass.... Typically the plugs have 30 to 50 percent of the cadmium burned off

 

look into a cam change...that might make the biggest difference..as for the new springs more pressure is harder on valves and valve seats....use good valves...Dave
www.myspace.com/daveloweswr

 

converter?..... i just know when my car starts goin .04-.08 differences in the sixty, my converter is going away. but i dont race at that many different tracks, so i know what to expect from my 60 pretty close......... or does she feel like youre driving through your converter?........ i know i gotta one track mind, but ive wasted countless hours trying to figure out tunes with plugs, egts,bla bla bla look great! and 7 times outa 10 its been converter issues. but ive got no luck with em, so im a little bias.

 

That sounds pretty logical.... I think I might step up on the boost, and then start leaning it out...

With the old block, I didnt really trust it... But with the new Rodeck, I am not soo apprehensive about spinning it up in the RPM range

 

Mike is right on were to shift it at.. I think a year or so ago I ask mike were he thought I should be shifting at...he told me and I tried it..guess what??? I left it were he told me to put it at the car really picked up..buy the way Mike thanks..Dave
www.myspace.com/daveloweswr

 

curious how much timing were you running in it? and what ignition?

 

It used to be running a Mag 12 I believe.... I am now running the new MSD 10, but dont have any good passes on the new ignition yet.

With the mag he was running 34 to 39 degrees... He said 37 was optimal for a good track

 

I am very curious how the MSD 10 compares in performance to the magneto 12.
Let us know.

 

The 10 plus is probably as close as you will find to a 44 mag, there is no comparsion to the 12. We made the switch and picked up over a tenth in the 1/8 mile on a blown dragster.
I use it with the 8979 box and I love it.

 

I have heard really good things about it, and the car was running great before we broke it...

We wont have it back together for a month or so, but I will let everyone know how it goes.

It ran 4.81 with the mag, and the old bowtie block.

We are dropping 150 pounds off the car, and of course the MSD 10.

I am hoping for somthing in the 4.60's

 

When a guy gets done paying for everything that is needed for the entire system, how does the 44 mag compare to the 10 or 10+?

 

How much did you change your shift point and how much did you change in ET.


I have made a bunch of changes to the car, so hopefully they will all come together.

The best ET out of the car was a 4.81 in the high 140's for MPH.

I have taken at least 40 pounds of rotating weight off the car from changing the wheels.... Maybe even more... I have gone to a stiff sidewall tire because the car is kind of heavy. It seems to have helped the launch...

I have changed to a MSD 10 from a MAG 12... Seems to run much smoother with the MSD 10, but I dont have any real passes on it.

I am taking around 150 pounds off the front of the car with the new block.

I am planning on moving the shift point to 8600 or so from 8000.


Right before the motor let go, I made one decent 1/8th mile pass... But I believe the engine was starting to go on that one because of the big drop in MPH.

I launched at 1500 rpms, shifted at 7600, got kinda squirly because the track was green... Went thru the traps at 5.01 @ 138 and change...

I was told that the car was spinning the whole length of the track and left marks for the whole 1/8th mile.... My 60' was decent at a 1.16 which was typical of the car before I got it.... The track was very green and only had traction compound to the 300 foot mark.


I fully expect to dip into the 4.60's with my changes... I was told that the camshaft in the car now pulls like crazy up top, so changing the shift point I am sure will help a whole lot...

 

times

I'm not a hard core racer by no means or have any good advice, however, my wife and myself share a car (she just started last year @ 38yo) we consistently run 4.70 in the 1/8 with a 8-71 street blower, enderle alcohol injection on a water cooled Dart big block. This is a door car on a four link suspension. Our 60' time is 1.0 launching @ 4500 on the transbrake. Nothing fancy, I even run a regular pro billet msd with a digital 6 ignition. Knock on wood, no problems ever. Just turned my tranny in w/ 70 passes. Found out a little too much heat in it, blued some thrust washers, but nothing major. Hope this helps.

 

Sounds way off to me, I'd think 4.5's

I use to run 4.9's with a 406 small block and that weight car. I'm running mid 4.2's with a big block similiar to yours, but with a 14 superman and a lot smaller cam in a 2433 lb car. I shift around 7600 but like I said I have a smaller cam. I think your tuneup and cam is where the problem is. You can't base a bbc on what tuneups and cams hemi's are using. PM me if you'd like some advice.