Keeping Flywheel Bolts Tight

I run a Brad 5 hemi with a PSI Screw and a Bruno / Lenco. I can't keep the flexplate bolts tight. After just a couple of passes they back out. We have used locktite and torqued them to the proper spec. I haven't used star washers yet.

Any suggestions ?

Thanks in advance

Keith

 

are you using a aluminum flexplate and is it the flexplate to crank bolts or the converter to flexplate bolts? I run the bruno/hemi set up to and had a problem with the crank to flexplate bolts loosning, so went to the ARP 12 POINT top fuel flywheel bolts with a beveled AN washer and torqued the snot out of it with a drop of loctite. use to use alot of loctite and it dont work, a drop does all u need. zero loosened bolts in 45 passes.

 

Keith,
To add to what H Brown said:
If you are using ARP bolts and washers there is a small radius under the head of the bolts, there is also a chamfer on the I.D of the washer, the chamfer must face towards the bolt. If not, no matter how much you torque the bolts it will never hold because you don't have enough surface contact area between the bolt and washer.

 

What Flexplate are you using ? We had the same problem last year. we had a Reactor flexplate, and on the third pass the converter bolts loosened off (with red loctite) and ruined the flexplate and our day. We now have puchased the Mezeire one peice billet steel flexplate. It is expensive but nice. My tranny guy said to check the converter bolts every pass for the first three passes, then you don't have to check anymore. I WOULD KEEP AN EYE ON THEM, hope this helps.


Tony Presto

 

Flywheel Bolts

We also use the Mezeire with the fuel flywheel bolts etc and we have zero problems. We use to run the reactor and found the same problems...The reactor flexes a bit too much for our liking compared to the mezeire.

Troy

 

I had the same problem a few years ago. I looked for flexplate bolts with safety wire holes in them and there didn't seem to be any such thing. So, I bought a new set of ARP bolts and took them to a machine shop with an EDM hole burner machine. They quickly buzzed a .040" hole across the heads for me and I've been safety wiring them ever since with no problems.

Spud
www.fuelinjectionent.com

 

flywheel

We use the Reactor with Coan adapter plate for a Bryant crank. Like was said, red locktite and 120 ft. lbs. of torque. Never had converter bolts loosen up.

Troy, your steel flywheel is slowing you down. LOL

 

After you tighten the bolts, weld the heads to the flywheel. Presto!! No more loose bolts! Or try the green locktite, it is listed as a sleve retaining compound, never comes loose, NEVER.

 

I had the same problem with our converter to flex plate bolts but when I got the ARP bolts problem solved. Be sure to clean the threads on the converter with break clean and dry the hole before installing the bolt with locktite then torque them. I also went from 4 to 6 bolts on the converter. Good luck. It really sucks when they come loose and groove the back of the block...

 

Go ahead and try this Keith and let me know what new words you create when you go to pull the converter out.

 

No shit!! I was kidding about the welding, it seemed funny when I typed it,sorry.With the green loctite a dab will do you. And even then you may have to heat it to get it to release. I only meant to use it on the flywheel bolts in the rear of the crank, for my convertor I use grade 8 bolts and a nylon lock nut and have never had one loosen up. Good luck.

 

welding

Thanks Jody, I wasted 1 nite trying to weld steel to my aluminum flywheel. It just melted. Does this work on your truck motor?lol

 

JB Weld works great alum. to steel, smart ass!@! HaHaHa

 

Glenn

I don't want to go any faster...I am already scared to death in the car...I am really trying hard to keep my eyes open on the run...so far I have not been able to do it...I just start crying like a baby...but I am hoping by the end of the season to be successful.! LOL


Troy

 

We had the same problem a few years ago with a Reactor flex plate and crank adapter on a Hemi crankshaft (Lencodrive setup). A real sharp machine shop buddy suggested red locktite on the bolts (switched to 12 point ARP) and GREEN locktite on the hub-to-crank area. It was moving around and transferring metal from the adapter to crank - and by gluing the hub to the crank it solved the problem.