rear main on tfx hemi block

anyone else experiencing rear main bearing probs in a screw blower application?

would love to hear what causes (other than obvious low oil pressure)
clutch out of balance?
clutch overheated and no longer concentric?
trans?
crank?

oil pressure is very good,
bellhousing is centered and on same plane as block
tfx block and crank were new
car has shaken tires more often than not

what would you check????

 

some wisdom south

check your pm

 

I have never ran a TFX block but if it is oiled similar to the chrysler blocks the rear main is the last thing in the oil sequence. The motor is pressurized from the front to the back and the oil supply is bled off as it moves rearward. Added into that equation is the heat generated in the clutch that is transferred by the crank shaft to the rear main. So a hot spot from clutch heating and low oil flow=burned rear main bearings. That is just my uneducated opinion- Dave Germain

 

When you shake the clutch it wears out the rear main, My brother Victor fixed that problem with the plastic ring that the fuel cars run it goes behind the flywheel between the flex plate and the back of the flywheel, it keeps the fly wheel from flexing.

 

thank you

the ring makes perfect sense, as the midplate showed serious gouging from the starter ring attachment screws

source for the ring? any idea who sells them?

thanks for the help with the replies

Chuck

 

Ti flywheel???

 

rear main probs

it's aluminum flywheel

run 60wt oil

roughly even wear on stands after warm up and the fingers are not tight or cocked

hat is real hard to get off, all 6 studs are moved out enough that we need to whack them with a dead blow to get hat off...and push the step washers in with a socket and a tap to get back on

the bearings fit same (tight) as when new after 1st repair in the cap

to start Im gonna send clutches to crower, when I called Roger he suggested the flywheel may have lost its 'rockwell' from overheating

when youre just a squirrell trying to find a nut, like we are, it helps to get pointed in the right direction

 

you definatly need to spin balance the clutch. i had a problem with it once.

 

When you send the clutch to get re-certed see if they can install some Carbide buttons in the backside of the Flywheel. You should also oil the rear main. Like Wil said there should be provision at the back of the block up on top near the bellhousing.

 

Chuck...........Just curious, do you push the clutch pedal down right at the finish line, or coast on the motor?

 

thanks again for all the responses, all make great sense

1)I do TRY to push in clutch on every run after dumping chutes and cross line, but being as I suffer from D.L.S. (drive like shit) there is no guarantee that we dont go hundred feet or so engine braking,

2)the old small stand/alum flywheel 10" clutches seem to be the root cause of the problem (cant take the heat and abuse) and I will go at the prob from that angle (ti upgrade flywheels-10.7 large stand-may even test a bruno&converter)

3)it is a plueger oil pump, is there a outlet to run a line to the port at the top of motor front of bellhousing? or where am I sourcing the supply from?

you guys are great!

regards
Chuck

 

You can use the oil pressur line, just T into it.