Air Clutch Release

I saw an air clutch release system by McAmis on their website. I have an alcohol FC running on an index. I'm running a B&J 3 spd with a pedal clutch. I'm always looking for an advantage against the glides. Has anyone had any experiences with this system. What are the good/bad points about system installation, maintenance, and performance. I would like to get a glide, but, like most self-funded racers, I look for trades or alternative approaches. This one seems to have promise, but would like to hear about others experience with the system.

Thanks,
Frank

 

Pedal Clutch ! What Up ?

If you are being "left on" by cars with glides, there is something very, very, very wrong with your setup ! I would definately get ahold of a Clutch Guru for some help........I was partners on a AA/FD for 7 years , 1971 till 1978 and a T/AD for 5 years,1979 till 1984 , both with pedal clutches and I can promise you that the AA/FD, # 699 was NEVER left on..The T/AD car #6605 was left on maybe 4 or 5 times in 5 years by Glides but that was the driver not being alert.............Happy Trails, The Oregonian...

 

Should the pedal clutch cars be allowed to run a button to keep up with the Lenco Gliders. I've asked that question when the issue came up over button vs clutch pedal release.

 

The idea of a button release clutch sounds like a good idea. I assume that a person would also tie-in some sort of a brake line lock feature, also released by the button, and a delay box controlling both?

Just front brakes, or rears, or both? I would imagine it would be a bit of a balancing act to time the brake release versus the air gap versus the delay in the box?

Once perfected, such a setup should be pretty repeatable as long as one zeros the clutch each time?..........

 

holding a ta/fc with a linelock

I do not think it is possilbe to hold a ta/fc or tad at stage rpm with a linelock! to many variables,as clutch starts to heat up at stage rpm,you have to hold it a little harder,sometimes the other guy really goes in slow and you just have to compensate.my 2 cents worth!!

 

Good points flash. A couple of questions though.

TAFC and TAD currently use hand brakes at stage, with X amount of brake pressure from the hand brake and master cylinder combo. If a driver was to stage, and then pull the same X amount of brake pressure with the hand brake, and then lock that holding force into the hydraulic circuit(s) with a line lock device, would that not amount to pretty much the same thing? Maybe err on the higher side of chosen lock pressure, just in case of clutch induced creep? Maybe a little more initial air gap in the clutch, with a little less launch RPM.

After all, this would only be for bracket racing, where consistancy is key. I don't know the answers to these questions, I'm just wondering out loud because I too have been contemplating trying this for a dual purpose car (some T/S and some outlaw).

I've stared at the McAmis type devices, in light of my pedal/can/shaft combo. I keep coming back to one conclusion. If a person were to put a release device on the pedal, then you'd have to deal with quite a number of system defelctions and reactions in a mutitude of planes.

Maybe it would be more repeatable (simple and less deflection), to instead use a longer cross-shaft, and put the release mechanism on the other side of the can, right along side the can? I dunno, just wondering?.........

 

Is there a better line lock out there that nobody has explored?

Certainly there has to be some industrial application where a hydraulic lock is employed besides racing.

If this is the case, what if said hydraulic lock were dual direction when unlocked, but single direction when locked.

This would prevent fluid from back flowing when engaged, but yet allow the driver to add more braking action if needed.

Basically, you'd pre-stage, slightly engage the clutch and line lock at 'x' level, then increase the brake as needed while turning on the 2nd bulb.

Dunno if something like that already exists... but... necessity is the mother of invention.

-WJ

 

Thanks Will...solid information. I've check with Mike at B&J on the converter drive...nice unit. Another CIFCA car in Phoenix had one...worked really well. I agree with you on trying the lower cost solutions.

 

If you used an air cylinder on the cross shaft in conjunction with a check valve and put a loop around the cyl and check valve with a fine adjustment needle valve in it you could not only release the clutch with a button but you could control the rate of release.
I installed a system like that on my TF car back in the 60's. Only used a hydraulic cyl. to try and control tire spin.
To answer question about industrial hyd. line locks, they are used on fork trucks and some automotive trucks with hyd. brakes.

 

I've known two guys that used a large Bimba cylinder hooked to the clutch pedal in conjunction with a MAC valve to activate with a button. Although they were both single disk McCLeod's I know the base pressure on one of the setups was in the 1200# range, so I would think the cylinder would have enough to hold a three disk type clutch. I think I've got one of the Bimba's in the shop, not sure if it has any numbers but I can at least measure it.
BTW the guy in Phoenix running the B&J convertor deal is Buzz Miller, seems really high on the setup.