blown chevy tips

My combo is a 509ci chevy with brodix 1802 big dukes (wet), new century alum. block (wet) and a littlefield 14/71 hi-helix at 23% to 40% od. Right now at 23% over. M.S.D. digital 7 programable with a big and ugly. Fuel pump is an enderly 1100. Cam is around .800 lift , running methanol for fuel.Compression is 11.5 to 1. Is there anyone else running a blown big chevy that can spare a few good tips on max h.p. , timing, fuel, etc. to keep me burning my motor up. Any help would be welcome, thanks

 

blown chevy

check your pm

 

Why do people answer with "check your pm".. I take the time to read the question, interested in the answers, and get that BS !!

 

blown chevy

heres what the pm said so you can see what we are saying some people dont like there tune ups up were everyone can see i dont care who sees it i will tell you exactly what im doing between rounds because in the end everyone runs differnt ways so you still got to run me down or i have to run you down

the "pm"
i have a bowtie block all dry big brodie heads 12-71 mooney ham alchaol bird catcher malloary super mag 2 but i have all the stuff for the end of the season to change to a pro mag 44 so i have some knowelge towards those so i wont be alot of help but i can get some info maybe for you we run 32* of timing what are you wanting to know on the fuel setup also have you run your car before if so what kinda times have you gotten that will help on figuring your hp

 

We run a 540 with big chiefs and a 14-71 helix. 32 degrees max timing. We run 30 with 37lbs of boost. Promag 12 ignition. Your stuff can make well over 2k hp but we broke water castings when we leaned on it.our engine seems to like fuel..cad on the plugs and about 1000deg peak egt.

Good luck,
Mike

 

Thanks thats what I was looking for, I used wet heads and block, but run them dry. I understand that they are weaker, but wanted to leave myself other options just in case I did not like a blower motor or wanted to sell block and heads to a n.o.s. guy. How much boost do you think the new century block(wet) and brodix 1802's (wet) will take. Also any tips on trans, rear end ratio, tires, etc. to help get down the track without shaking and spinning. Right now I have 16in dbls and goodyear 1490's with 4.10 rear gear. Thanks for any advice.

 

The New Century Will Hold All You Can Give It, And The Heads The Same Too. Not A Real Big Water Jacket And The Decks Hold Up Good.i'd Go For 1/2" Head Studs

 

I never broke the chambers but my exhaust ports cracked on 18% dart big chief water heads. I never pushed the EGT's. Made around 2k hp @30psi.

 

overkill 69, what kind of chassis,trans,etc. are you running . Also what kind of times are you turning in the 1/8 and 1/4. My car is a 270in spitzer with a powerglide trans. Car has dbl slip joints, have been having trouble with tire shake or spin, after over 15 passes has not made a full power pass yet.

 

just tryn 2 help

Jody , discodean here I have a spitzer car, run with the pro top outlaws, I have a similar set up, I run fastest of a 4.19 at 170 mph 540 chevy, dart 360s wet ,dont run any water though . 8-71 kobelco, 11.0 -11.5 to 1, 20 amp msd mag, My tune up is different than everyone elses but I havent figured out why? I have alot of passes with out failure, I am a budget blower motor racer! I run oliver STEEL RODS, I am 36 over and making about 23 to 25 lbs of boost. main 170 , hs, 80 , with another lean out on a timer , with a 50 jet , 30 degrees of timing, with a power glide ,. I would be glad to help , DISCODEAN!! how many rpms are u launching at? what tire press? clutch or converter?

knowledge is money saved!

 

jody - if you are experiencing tire shake - try m/t tires. they make 16" tires with stiff sidewalls that don't shake on my double slip joint dragster. the hoosiers + goodyears shook on my car. just switching to the mickeys stopped the shake. their 16's come in 34.5" and 36" sizes. i tried a 36" set from a friend and have used 3 sets without any shake since. both before the mickeys and after i use beadlocks. i started at 5 pounds air hot and don't normally move very far from that pressure. they work from 125 degrees to 65 degrees track temperature.

 

Discodean, thanks for the reply. I am running 1490 goodyears on DBLs at appox 5.5 to 5.75 lbs by my gauge. I have tried between 3500 and 5000 rpm on launch. Also have pulled out 10 deg of timing at leave and ramped back in in 1.5 sec, not much help. Have slipjoints set at appox, 1/4 to 1/2in gap with wheelie bar set at appox. 3in to 4in. When I run with rear stops all out I run bar at appox 6in. I really appreciate the help all of the blower guys share with me, its not like the n.o.s. guys, with all their little secrets. The way I see it most of us are racing for the fun and challange of it anyway. Plus the more blower cars that show up for a top dragster race [ihra] the harder the n.o.s. cars have to push it to make the field. I will gladly share what little knowledge I have if it will save someone some time, money, and effort. A good friend Diamond Dave Harris took me in and helped me, who by the way was low qualifier at Maryland this past weekend, has really helped me out alot. By the way he builds, races and sells trans, for top dragster. So for anyone reading this and in need of a powerglide maybe give him a call. Regards, Jody Stroud TD9325

 

Jody are you running liners or beadlocks? Many moons ago I ran a Rodeck TAD w/ 1490s (my favorite tire then). We had a 2 dic glide (later a scott 3 disc pedal) with lenco 3-speed and 4.11-4.56 rear ratio. Tire shake was still a new issue then (late 70s) and we raised the liner pressure to about 45lbs and that helped.

RE the tune up, we had a smaller engine (441), blower (8-71) and pump (110) and too much timing (38-40; did not know better back then). I ran between a .100-.125 main jet w/ solid aluminum D port heads (.125-.140 w/ iron heads) with nozzels (.055-.060) only in the hat. The hi speed had a .050(+ or - a few .000s) with manual lever.

TD sounds like a fun class.
DC (also in SC)

 

just tryn 2 help

jody this is what i would do, next time you go out try 6 to 7 lbs, in the tires, compare your guage to someone elses, the bar should be 5 in. from bottom of wheel to the ground. you didnt say what converter or what it stalls at ? try launching at 3000 or 3200 if your stall is at 7000. if it is tighter, then subtract that difference from launch. example converter 6800 launch at 2800 to 3000, it sounds wrong but trust me it works!! i run my chassis LOOSE AS POSSIBLE!! I have slips front and rear total of 12 all loose, is there a saddle under your motor with a semi diagonal upright? clamped or not clamped? I forget what you said the timing was at ? I would start at a straight 26 to 28 to fet down track . then put 1 degree in at a time after that, till it blows the tires off!!! then back it down !! just tryn to help disco!!!

 

Zombie top dragster

Disco Dean, thanks dude, sounds like where I was already heading with my tune up. Timing now is at appox 34deg, will back down to 30deg at launch and pull maybe 5 or 6 more degrees at gear change. The trouble with all the slip joints is it is easy to get lost on your setup, with tire pressures and such. You should come and run Top Dragster at Rockingham Oct. 19-21, the more blower cars that show up the harder the bottle babys have to run their stuff and can't sandbag. Also, the tubes under the front are just setting there not tied down. This is hands down the best web site for anyone that is trying to run a blower car. Thanks again to everyone that has offered advice.