Clutch wear

What's an average clutch pac wear (in thousandths) with a 3 disc Crower clutch on 1 run.

 

I'd like to hear some discussion on this too, I'm new to a clutch setup this year, so far I'm getting about .005" per pass, thinking that's just a tad too much.

 

We use Crower 2 disc 10.7"

Take off about 2 thou per run total.

 

New stuff-3 disc-about .015-.018 first pass.
used stuff, depends on how YOU want to run your car.
You will get a million answers, too many variables.
Such as: .002 = smoke or spin all over a crappy track.
Discs harder than 86 Rockwell B, maybe .000
Sorry to be so factual. Learn your own car.

 

Bob:

Another variable is how you maintain your clutch. If you keep readjusting the pack that's in the car and making runs it won't wear like fresh stuff installed every run.

RG

 

Randy; That's exactly how I like to run one.
I'm too old to do the follow what he does deal.
Plus, I find it hard to use a $4000.00 machine to grind the crap out of the $700.00 pack I just put in!
Consistency? The last deal I ran by myself, made 7 runs btw. 5.700 and 5.718 with the can off after the first three, just to check for cracked fingers.
Think about this one: Once apon a time, ground all with loving care, seated it, went out and broke a roller on the burnout. Hurt the lifter bore, changed motors, but only had one clutch. The thing looked like it had done 10 runs in 10 feet. I never ground a pack again.
Keep in mind this is only my preference, and I work with people who grind the crap out of theirs every run. I can deal with it, because I don't have to pay the bill.
Standard disclaimer: just a welder !

 

We did 3 laps just to give Pete some seat time (to try to get his head on straight) a couple months ago at Bakersfield. It was almost 100 degrees with 141+ degree track temps on a bracket race weekend so the track was a little "greasy". All we did was adjust for clutch wear each run and never changed it out with fresh stuff. He short shifted the living &%#$ out of it the second run and purpled the pack. I just stuck a fan on it to cool it down, then adjusted it.

Amazingly, on the third run he launched it and hit the 1-2 shift light at 9,900. After that the ignition started shorting out when the red wire from the box to the coil gave up. It still ran a 5.97 at 245. I took the clutch out when I got back to the shop and it actually didn't look that bad. I figure it would have run a mid to low 5.80 based on the 330' time before the MSD prob's.

Considering the conditions that was a dang good run, and it got off the starting line and ran clear to 9,900 RPM in low gear with no issues at all. I would have left the clutch in it for 2-3 more runs if we would have stuck around, but I was wore out so we left.

Old habits are hard to break, so I'll keep popping a new pack in every run when it counts (which hasn't been much lately).

RG

 

rookie

Did you two kids find the clutch growing a little
more aggresive/more teeth etc?
the more you left it in?

bob
ps thank you guys for sharing knowledge you got the hard way

 

Just have to put my two cents in, when we ran our BB/A it had a crower glide two disk in it and we never changed the clutch for the whole year. no grinding, just adj the pack and change the wights as needed. The Italian Way. what a great race car, wish i still had it.

 

Bob; not at all once you are on top of it. As the track gets better, normal deal you may have to add a little.
I should mention that I do Scotchbrite the floater ears now and then to make it easier to read the steel color through the slot. Remember I burn the crap out of steel everyday, so I know what color it gets and how fast.

 

One other thing, back then schafer was making duel disk clutches, and there floter was a round one with holes in it no scaloping, and thats what i used, it never warped like the scaloped ones did, could be the key to makeing them last longer,but then the clutch guys will be pissed cuz they wont be selling as many parts like now, i know you coulden't fit a round floter in the can before with a 10.7 but now that most have gone to the 10 in. it will work. try it you'll like it. P/S the holes were for the stands to go true ,not cooling holes.

 

Uncle Bob & Hawaii / Clutch Wear

Boy, am I out of touch,our 2 Disc Merv would use up .004 per run ( of course we never ran that hard ) The Clutch Can NEVER came out of the car at a race, even during 8 runs to the final at OCIR........I was too old I guess to tackle that heavy SOB even back then.Since I wasthe Lone Ranger I did the maintenance Between Races.......So now you have to have a $4000 grinder and a guy to do it and how much is the winner paid at a Divisional ? ? Please read my Post on the Pit Buzz....................Happy Trails, Larry....

 

more help please

do you guys think we could got away with makeing
4 runs in the 5.90 range,without pulling the can?
trying to crossover me and flashes licenses in one day.

thanks BOBBY P

 

Bob; to maybe oversimplify, if the wear is .005-.008, I believe I'd just zero it and go. If it's .015 + and the floaters are blue, NO!

Bob

 

i fully think i get it

so what your saying if im that lazy in my old age
i may want tio keep my feet out of the way the
last pass?lol ,thanks for your help bob. me and
cody know just enough about funny cars to get
in trouble.it will be intresting to see if we can
ever get this old one we bought to qualify at
a div 7 event.
thanks again BOBBY P