BAE block to powerglide adaptor

I want to adapt a BAE motor to Pat Donovan tork-link drive ( G.M. patern )
does somebody know who can make adaptor plate for that , I want to put a starter on it also . any help will be appreciate
Claude

 

Same holds true for a Donaven drive

We just put in a Lenco drive

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We just switched to a Lenco drive. We were running a clutch in our Out Law Street car. It was the same setup we had in the funnycar (526 Hemi 3 speed cs1 hd and a Hays steel hat 3 disc. We run some podunk tracks in the south and have to turn the car around in 45 min. The clutch was to hard to chase so we were going to put a Bruno in with are old trans. The problem came that Bruno's only have a Chevy bellhousing and our hemi has a TA\FC Vasco crank with no pervission for a converter hub. Neal Chance makes a cool set up to hook it all togather and move the stater to the passenger side away from the oil lines but it was $2000.00 bucks. After we sold the stuff we had we were able to put in the Lenco drive for about $3000.00 more less the $2000.00 converter (No sprag) (1.25 input) We had to fatten up the barrel valve at idle and switch from 4.10's to 3.89 but it has been great.

 

call Craig at COAN racing transmissions. I bought a kit with midplate adapter,starter,flywheel, and a adapter for the top fuel crank to converter hub for $1200.00. It works out perfectwith some mods. I run a 526 TFX fuel motor with a bruno\lenco. If you want to call me I can tell you all the problems to look out for to save you a lot of time. I learned the hard way and had to pull motor and trans at least ten times working the bugs out,so give me 5 minutes to save you weeks of hair pullin. just to much to type. howard 512-413-2971 also i have craigs number at work if you want to call me tommorrow.

 

Thanks guys for the info,
I did'nt have the BAE in my shop yet and i dont know if the crank has provision for centering converter .
Howard ,I don't have any time to work on my project for the next 2 weeks , but i will call you soon .
Thanks
Claude

 

TCI has it all for around 400.00b and its a slick kit

 

I went thru this about a year ago on our Pro Mod, here is what we used:

TCI Plate
CSR Flywheel (168 Tooth)
CSR Hemi starter
CSR Replacement Pinion Gear (Part# 120)
JW Pilot adaptor
Neal Chance Bolt-Together

We had to redrill the plate for the starter. The bottom bolt hole was too close so we moved it out to better align the teeth.

The pilot adaptor centers off of the o.d. of the crank. The flywheel and converter both align with it. It is a nice piece. We had to take a few thous' off of the inside of the adaptor so it would fit nicely over the crank.

Make sure that the heads on your crank/flywheel bolts have a thin head and don't dig into the back of the converter. It has to have a little clearance to keep from wiping out the thrust on your crank.

Hope this helps,

Keith Goolsby

 

Thanks guy's for the info
I checked on the internet both coan & tci , , the only difference that i see is coan included the starter in the kit . i'm not sure this is the only difference.
i can have coan kit for $ 1100.00 and tci kit for $ 485.00
Claude

 

keith goolsbe

you seen Frank herford lately?? how is his health??? Dave Lowe

 

Hi Dave, call me 417-224-2348 Frank's doing good

Keith

 

I have now the BAE engine in my shop , and i bought from a friend , a complete kit (except starter ) with reactor flywheel ,to adapt a GM trans type to a Hemi engine . The problem that i.m facing is BAE engine have very thick ears on each sides or the block ,( about 1-1/2 inch ) without any hole for a starter , and due to the spacer betwheen the crankshaft and the ring gear . its practicly impossible to bring a starter close to the ring gear. Does somebody ever install a starter on a block like that ? what kind of starter ?
Help needed
Thanks Claude

 

we run a clutch in our car with a chevy starter on a tfx block. our starter when sitting in the car is in the 7 o'clock position. we bolted it directly to the motorplate (3/8" thick). we had to make new holes in the starter plate to re-align the starter(twisting the starter on the 1" thick aluminum plate that comes with most starters) our starter is a GPE, but they are all about the same size. we then machined the corner off the 1" thick plate so we could locate it where we needed to( very close to the block). the solenoid has 1/2" clearance to the oil pan. i would bolt the starter directly to the motorplate , it's alot simpler that way. put some king-serts in the plate and you will be fine. we also added an ear to the starter plate, which let us add an extra bolt in the starter for a total of 3. maybe i can be of some help to you.feel free to e-mail me
darren russell
fast378@woh.rr.com