oil ?'s

Discussion in 'PSI Superchargers Tech Questions' started by James D, Oct 11, 2006.

  1. James D

    James D New Member

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    Just getting ready to fire up blown alcohol engine 588ci BBC 1471 hi helix. The bearings had six runs on them when we decided to switch from injected to blown. They looked great so we left them in. We changed out pistons and put in new rings. Was going to start it up with regular 30wt oil and heat it up a time or too before dumping it out. I have 10 gals of Royal purple Nitro 60 snythectic and I was thinking that would probably be a good choice to run. Mains are .0035 and rods are .0030. It is a wet sump 8qt pan, system 1 filter for the heavier wt. oil and I have an accumulator on the car. It's usually warm here (central ca.). We won't be bringing the rpm up until oil is warm. Are we on the right path? Thanks.
     
    #1
    James D, Oct 11, 2006
  2. Will Hanna

    Will Hanna We put the 'inside' in Top Alcohol
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    bigger pan

    i wouldn't get it off the jackstands with only 8 qt pan and a blown motor.

    maybe someone's done it, but i wouldn't.

    at minimum run a 12 qt pan. more is better when it comes to wetsump.

    i know it's not exactly your application, but most tad's with wet sumps are running 18-20 qts.

    i think the bearing clearances may be a little tighter than most blown applications, but i'm not familiar with the chevy's. hemi's are usually .0045 on the mains and start .006 to .008 on the rods, but close up after a few runs.
     
    #2
    Will Hanna, Oct 11, 2006
  3. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    I agree with Will you are too tight on the mains and bearings. The rods are going to close up after a run or two. If they are .006 with new bearings then they will be .003 to .004 after a couple of runs. So if you start out with .003 it is going to end up real tight and not have enough oil cushion to protect the bearings especially if you are trying to push 60 wt oil into it.

    If you are using the 30 wt regular oil to seat the rings before the synthetic oil then just starting and running it at idle a couple of times is not going to do it. We have always run synthetic oil and you need to by Valvoline racing oil and make a couple of runs (minimum of one good one) on it before switching to the synthetic.
     
    #3
    Mike Canter, Oct 12, 2006
  4. wildride boy

    wildride boy Top Sportsman Racer

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    Sorry Will and Mike , but i don't understand why rods brgs clearance come tighter after few runs . Can you explain this ? I always thinking that it was the opposite!
    Thanks Claude
     
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    Last edited: Oct 12, 2006
    wildride boy, Oct 12, 2006
  5. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    According to Brad Anderson, Brian at GRP, Carrol Carter and several other big time engine builders this is what happens with new bearings on new rods. If you measure the clearance new and after three runs you will see the difference. As far as what causes it I believe the compression shock down the rod to the big end closes the rod up some in the longitudal axis. That's their story but I have validated that the oil clearence does in fact close up.
    This is way Brad Anderson sends his motors out with .006"+ rod bearing clearances.
     
    #5
    Mike Canter, Oct 12, 2006
  6. Jap Tin

    Jap Tin New Member

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    James, listen to these guys, they know what they are doing.
    If you would like, we will try out your 10 gallons of RP to make sure it is OK. You can have it back after were sure it is OK for you.
    Jack is ready to fire ours up so if you wan't us to check out your oil let me know.
     
    #6
    Jap Tin, Oct 12, 2006
  7. James D

    James D New Member

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    Thanks Jap Tin for the offer, you're such a giver :rolleyes: . The rods and crank were run with these bearings already and that's what the clearance is now. It's 8 qt's plus the large filter and 3 qt's in accumulator. We aren't planning on running this engine hard; maybe 10%-20% over and about 7,500 rpm. If I need a 50 wt oil for break in what brand would be best?
     
    #7
    James D, Oct 12, 2006
  8. jeff_7306

    jeff_7306 Member

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    James your right on about the Royal Purple oil. I've tried other oils and would pay double for Royal Purple. I deal will Randy at www.RPMoil.com.

    Good Luck
     
    #8
    jeff_7306, Oct 12, 2006
  9. Jap Tin

    Jap Tin New Member

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    (If I need a 50 wt oil for break in what brand would be best?)
    Valvoline NSL Racing Motor Oil. If you want a conventional, non syn. oil.
     
    #9
    Jap Tin, Oct 13, 2006

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