Oil Pump Help

I am new to the Blown Alky stuff ( Nitrous convert) I bought a used KB/BAE Hemi and I put a new Moroso FC pan on it, Im running the motor as a wet sump and I need a new single inlet oil pump (the KB pumps I have are dual scavenge) I've priced a KB billet pump and a Titan Billet pump and there is $200-$250 difference in price. I hate to nit pick but Im as broke as a convict so is the Titan pump really worth the extra money??


Thanks

 

Run the K.B. pump you allready own and put a dual pickup in your pan.
Save money and make it better at the same time.

 

Pumps

IF YOU DECIDE TO GO NEW WE CAN PUT YOU INTO A PLUEGER PUMP WET SUMP FOR 625.00 SINGLE LINE. WWW.RBSSUPERCHARGERS.COM OR CALL 530-292-3368

 

Let's think about this for a moment.
Of the pumps I would rate them,
1. - Titan
2. - KB
3.- Plugher

Now lets look how much money do you have invested in the engine?
On a $10,000 investment $200.00 is only 2%, really no very much in the whole scheme of things.
Why be penny wise and dollar foolish.

 

So even though most of the PM guys run a Plueger you would rate it last? Yes I do agree 2% is a small (relatively) margin BUT I really dont think of those three pumps (or the 2 I mentioned originally) that ANY of them are more or less likely to cause any catostrophic engine damage. My original point is that if I have 2 billet pumps by 2 different manufacturers and there is a $200 price diff. is one really THAT much better?? I mean either pump I believe would be able to get the job done and keep the rods INSIDE the block. Besides you rated the KB pump higher than a Plueger, by your logic the Plueger is better than the KB just because it costs more.

Besides, I may be broke but I aint cheap! I just like to know where my money is going!!

 

Look at what the fuel guys are running.
John Force is related to Plugher.
The best oil pump is one by Roy Johnson.
The next best is by Waterman, the Titan, Then System 1, then KB, then Plugher.
This is not based on price but on quality and consistancy of the parts.
I have used them all in dragboat applications and this is the way I rate them.

 

I might get thrashed on this one, but we've run system 1, KB, and plueger pumps....they all seem to pump oil! That really all we want 'em to do isn't it? We currently run a plueger dry-sump pump and it seems to be working just fine for us.

 

If you are going to switch pumps let me know I might wanna buy your your pump you have...Dave Lowe

 

I have 2 cast KB oil pumps with dual #12 inlets, both for wet sump, they are for sale. Call me @ 865-806-9241

 

Pumps

Fuel Doctor Just Curious How Your Rating System Works. Price,size And Weight Of The Pump,gears Inside,gerotar Versus Spur Gear,fitting Sizes, And To Clarify Steve Plueger Is Not Related To Force.

 

Rated on performance, dynamometer testing of the component and serviceability, Also on drysump applications on the amount of oil scavanged.
Check the Force tree and lineage.

 

Oil Pumps

Fuel Doctor Not Arguing With You But Steve Is Not Related To Force No How No Way. Steve Himself Even Says So. The Condits Are Related That Use To Run The La Hooker Funny Cars As Well As The Infamous Gene Beaver Was Forces Uncle. Now Back To The Pumps You Say On Performance That Is Pretty Vague Do You Have Some More Explanation. Do You Have An Oil Pump Dyno Or Are You Running This On A Running Engine On The Dyno. On The Scavaging Is This Oil Left In The Pan After A Pass One Problem Is Most Cars After They Go Thru The Lights Butterflies Close And Engine Shuts Down Not Giving The Pump A Chance To Scavenge. On The Serviceability The P&p Pump Has Two 1/4 Bolts That Seperate The Three Sections And There Is A Pressure Piston With A Gerotar Set Not Much In There To Worry About. Now I Agree When You Get In The Dailey,barnes Type Pumps With Air Oil Seperators, Several Scavenge Sections There Are Improvements But We Were Comparing Apples To Apples. One Reson A Lot Of Guys Run The P&p Is It's Physical Size. Most Titan And System One Are Big And Bulky And Tough To Get Into A Chassis. The K-b Billet Pump Is Machined Down A Little More But Still Not As Much As The P&p.

 

Yes we have a pump dyno, and based on engine performance on test.
I do this stuff for a living.
We have foud through the years that the service on the plueger pump is very difficult to sometimes non-existant due to its compact size.
Scavange issues are due to return of oil from top end to crankcase primarily due to higher pressures in the crankcase and no vent path to equalize the pressure with out the oil in its path.
One bad habit we get into is flooding the engine with oil instead of distributing it to its place of most need for lubrication. Also the primary goal of the oil is to provide lubrication in a wedge form and to remove heat. If we increase oil flow too much we distroy the oil wedge and do not allow the oil to transfer heat out of the component parts.
Respectfully,
George P. Roth PhD aka Fuel Doctor

 

what about the pan

About the first part of this question.I may be wrong but I thought Moroso only had a Dry Sump F/C pan. Whatever pump you are going to use,I would check with Scott to make sure you don't have 1000 ft. oil supply in a 1320 race using that pan. You will need a lot more oil with that blower than with the nitrous.

 

Moroso calls it a "dry sump" pan but according to them (yes we checked) it can be used in either application. I've been told to use 12-13 qts of 70wt.