Too much puk

I need help stopping puk:I have a funny car 72% OD PSI 526ci TFX runs mid 5.9's lots of oil and small amount of fuel in puk tank and frame rails after every run about a litre or two, have just fitted new rings using reverse taper cast 2nd ring (Not zero gap type) .005" per inch of bore gap, leak down is ok, nothing seens to help? any help would be great.

 

a couple of things that cause puke is how rich the fuel system is and how hot is the motor getting. without heat in the motor your rings will never seal properly, causing excesive blowbye. another thing is how rich the actual run is and you get the same result. its not uncommon to get some puke in the rails and tank on a good run as well. what does the oil in the motor look like after a run? if it looks like mud that is another sign of no heat. from my own personal experiance ,if the cylinder head temps (not exhaust) don't get over 200 degrees the oil will look like runny baby s@#t , and you will have a load in your tank......

 

being that your in Australia, maybe if you ran the car right side up the oil wouldnt drain out of the motor?

 

Stu; I'm pretty sure who you are, and if I am, congrats on setting those records. Almost 240 mph @ 72% over tells me your tune up can't be very far off. Like Bruce says, it just might be a little heavy on the B.V. % to get early heat, and the rings have not seated properly.
Borrow both Damian and Grant's leakdown testers besides your own, for comparison.
Woodchip; After 14 trips downunder, with all the people asking me about water turning backward and all that stuff, I like to mention that backward gravity can be a good thing with women, as stuff can sag UP !!

 

Thanks Bob and Bruce it sounds like Ive been running the motor a little cold it would be only 195 in pre stage,will warm it up some and see how that works, Bruce the oil is not like baby poo.
Bob had a great meeting took the win as well as the records hope to get a little more out of it yet.

thanks Stu:

 

195 at pre stage is about where you want it, so i dont think your b.v. is the problem. if the heads are 195 at pre stage what is the temp at the end of the run, right as you stop in the shutdown area? if the heads are the same temp as when you left the starting line then the run itself was rich. i have seen and heard guys that left the starting line at 190 and were 170 after the run. they can't figure out why they are milking the oil either. Rolme,if you are at 195 at pre stage and the oil is decent , the only thing i can think of would be sleeves that are out of round.?

 

Hey Stuart, The other thing could be worn intake valve guides/stems. I found that with too much clearance, and with increased boost/pressurizing, the puke levels tend to increase. Also, congratulations on the records and win, was "DJ Damo" hanging around? He might have learned something!

 

Bruce thanks for the input, the fastest lap 5.91 the car had 205 degrees at the step and 195 at the stripe, a little hotter than i had thought at the start, the motor however has the No1 cylinder being lazy it is out at the step 170 degrees exhaust and stays about 200 degrees behind the rest for the run, ive been nozzeling it but it is slow to come around, it now has a lot smaller jet than the rest of the motor this may be contributing to the problem? all the sleeves are now 13 runs old and all measure well. Thanks again.

Worms (SS) hey dude thanks for that DJ was around, will your car be at the winters??

 

My client base is primarily unblown apps and a lot of them also do not run water. Some are solid head but most are jacketed.
Some use oil temp as a guideline but I always figured it was "too cushioned" to be of real good use.

I was wondering where you folks place your sensor on the head. At the end, in some convenient spot?

The Hemi valve placement makes that a simple choice, more or less due to valve placement.
What would you folks do with a wedge like a BBC? On one side there is an exhaust valve at the end of the head on #1 and an intake on the front at #2.
.
There is a big difference in the heat at the end of each head. There is also the issue that plays in here where the outside wall is open on the inside where the oil drains back so the sensor would have to be installed down low to get a hold of some solid metal I presume.

Opinions on location choices, please?

On an open bodied car, would a position at the back of the head, out of the wind perhaps be a better choice for consistent readings sake?

Thanks
Dave Koehler
www.koehlerinjection.com

 

"Rolme", yeah, I'll be at the winters, should have run last weekend except for a little accident in the garage while loading the car, garage floor -1, "SS" -0. I'll be out of action for about 4 to 6 weeks, hoping to run at the ARS round here in April. Don't know yet what what to run in at the winters, I thought the altered index/ record would have been bombed over there for sure, but it wasn't, so Idon't know yet, but depending on how my injury goes, I may run T/A. How about you, you should bring your car over here and set the cat amongst the pigeons? Also, that problem you have with no.1 cylinder, I have got the same thing, I know what it is, and a possible way to cure it, PM your e-mail to me and I will give you my thoughts.

Later,
"SS"

 

Thanks guys for the help servicing motor at the moment will let you know if i find anything.
Thanks again Rolme.

 

Hi Will,

How did you seal off the push rod tubes in Shelly's car?

I am running similar heads and just want to prevent a problem.

Cheers
Ray