need advice/help

I am new to blown alcohol racing--just got my first blower motor...440 filled..crower crank/brooks rods/j-e pistons10-1/comp roller cam/mallorymagIII/b.d.s manifold/871 littlefield/enderle birdcatcher-57bottom pulley 52top 7.5% overdriven---all fresh..installed in 69dart door car.... reading books ect...in order to educate myself...found this website...QUESTION: from my valve covers--i see large hoses going to puke cans?? should I put puke cans in front of car or in rear /higher or lower then valve cover height????what size hose???need breather on can ??? my block is stock mopar/filled with oliver main caps....heads are stock ported....not filled...should I fill them??or put some water in them...there are caps on each head that look like they are to add liquid????the heads and block are o-ringed... this whole deal is just for fun & some local index racing nothing serious just always wanted blower car it is so cool!!!!! thanks for any input danny

 

I have a SBC and run water through the heads with the block filled, because of the center exhaust valves, would suggest you do the same.
Drill the heads front, rear, and center, put water in the rear and the center then take it out the front this seems to be working on mine. I will post later to let you know how many runs I go before the center of the gasket starts leaking. You have to be sure and get all the air out or you might just as well run them dry.

 

so ....circulate water through heads/ with small radiator?? I thought could run with no radiator??or just fill them and cap?? to run them dry will burn valves??

 

WATER WILL EXPAND....IF YOU FILL AND CAP IT OFF WHAT DO YOU THINK WILL HAPPEN!!!!! not good...as far as no water and burnt valves...I need to take a look at my brad heads!! you don't need to run water how many ta/d and t/f do you see running a raditaor???? the answer ( 0 ) if you are running alcohol it runs very cool more times that not you will have to pull the fuel shut off back to lean it after you fire it up to get some heat in the motor before you do your burn out.........WATER/RADIATOR=WEIGHT

 

The problem is not burning the valves, it is having the head get hot between the exhaust and raise up (a few thousands causes a leak between the cylinders, more than that and the "Dragon" will escape causing torching). Santo's had the same problem and was welding the heads in the center every couple of runs. Mine lasted about 30 runs but at a much reduced power output, then I had to recut them. I am trying to get a season out of the heads without having to remachine them.

 

I use an evaporater core from an automotive a/c system with a/n fittings welded to it, I made a surge tank out of an automotive accumulator with a bung welded to the top for a radiator cap. With the system full (about 3 quarts of water) there is enough room for expansion and contraction without pushing any water out (which I vent into the already required catch can from the valve covers) until the head gaskets start leaking. If you do not circulate the water it will just boil in the center of the heads and expand too much. I use a pump I bought from Granger's.

 

are we talking big block or small blck----heads--- the big blcks have more bolts around each cylinder and thus more clamping force??........as far as filling and capping...I agree , it would expand...no where to go..makes perfect sence.. o.k. QUESTION: run the ported iron heads dry?? or fill with hard block?? or what?? on a big block/blown alcohol......041 copper head gskts ,o-ring groove in block/raised o-ring on top,,,,,,,,,,446ci. 10-1 comp.--58 bottom/53 top pulleys 7.5% overdrive??birdcatcher with 110 pump /#50 nozzles high speed & idle bypasses...set up & flowed by DALE EMERY in southern calif./ anyone heard of him?? should I run hoses to my header collector evacs??? or purchase/make puke tanks & put in front or rear of engine...higher or lower then valve covers/what size hose??? i have seen a clear hose used,looks like hot-tub water hose????? any & all help is really appreciated!!! thanks danny......central texas

 

dont bother filling them. your not gonna build up enough heat on alky to warrant putting water to em either. just leave them dry. and seeing as your gonna have alot of space where the radiator used to be, use it. run tubes to a puke tank up there. you dont have to go crazy with the puke tank either, with that smaller blower, and only driving 7.5 over, your not gonna get a ton of blow any anyway. so save yourself some cash . just make something that looks decent, and that the tech guys will approve of. just my 2 cnts.

 

i keep getting told keep it simple/your set-up is simple dont try to reinvent the wheel.........I guess just trying to get confidence with something new....to me... none of my local gear head buddies have any background with blown allky,,so of course its the old 'your goona f^#$@k it up" from all of them...well I am going to learn, thanks for input

 

I run a BBC Big M block with solid Brodix BBX3 xtra heads. I like to run water in the block but not in the heads. If you have a block made to run water and do do not run water it can cause hot spots in the cylinder walls. The heads do not care. This was a trick. I run freeze plugs that I weld bungs to and run a line under the pan to the other side of the block and force the water out the front of the block and cross it over were the water pumps was and back to the raditor. I have to run the fuel shut off half open an it takes 5 gal of fuel to warm it up. However I have the option to keep the block warm with the water on cool days and cool it off on hot days. We race outlaw Promod and I am one of the only guys that run water. weight is not an issue because we have to weigh 2600 and we weigh 2615. Just do not put water in it and shut it in. Steam is powerful stuff.

 

blown alky wedge

Greetings Cuda. Nope...you're not the only one! I,too,am looking for answers. What I've found is "there are no ABSOLUTE answers". I am developing a comp.elim. AA/AM bullet based on a Keith Black solid alum. block and B1 moved centerline WATER heads. The popular opinion seems to be that the heads would be better off solid...definitely not sealed up with water! My problem is I already own the heads so I'm looking for a way to make them work (see Chrysler Wedge a little farther down in the tech section on this web site). I know there HAVE been successful similar combinations. However, I'm new to this too. ...Gotta be a way...Yep, yep...gotta be a way. Would really appreciate any and all comments. Thanks, Mark.

 

I run a BB chevy for almost 10 years with all kind of blocks ; from std height passenger blocks through trucks tall deck and now with merlin light , and never run them with water , never had problem with that . Start for the burnout, make 1/4 pass and shut off ...and a golf kart ride.

 

I agree with not needing water in the block and when the block is filled it stablizes (sic) both the cylinder walls and the mains.....but when you have the exhaust valves next to each other ie small block chevy you will have a problem with the heads warping between the center cylinders if you do not run some coolant, now the way I remember it the chrysler you are refering to has the same valve arangement...correct me if I am wrong, I would think that they would have the same problem....maybe not? Have a nice day.

 

You have the same problems with the chrysler engines. We run a wedge block 390 cubes and have had heaps of problems with head warp and burnt valves. Running water has helped this problem quite a great deal. The water simply circulates the head using a pump. The water is stored in a tank mounted towards the rear of the engine of to the side of the supercharger. We run an overflow tank at the front of the car under the front wing on the computer tray. The car is an altered.

 

If you are planning on bracket racing, I highly suggest running water through the heads at least. I have a dragster w/ a blown 510 chevy, and we used to leave the heads dry (block is filled). After three or four runs in summer heat in a few hour period, the motor ran noticeably different, and was extremely hot. There were a few times we didn't run the next round because the motor was that hot. We now have water running through the heads, and the car can handle a full night of braket racing.

bryan brown

 

mopar megablock here,572 with indy 572-13 alum heads,alky hat inj,filled block,dry water heads,run couple yrs now no water,copper head gskt o ringed,never a problem,have egt playbacks,head termo couplers,run rich on bottom to get to line and drive back,so far its worked well for us. Put you a puke tank up front with some sort of drain go to lowes get the clear hose the size you need,if the valve covers has the holes in front sticking out towards the radiator you can put the tank lower in the frame and use enough clear hose so as when its hooked up it forms a small uphill climb out of the valve cover then down to the tank,any acsesive oil will run back in.made ours with two 1.250 hose fittings on top of tank,two small breathers on top tank,baffled,drain on bottom,so far its worked well. hope some this helps. MARK

 

boost

how much boost are you getting 14lbs?
i run 8lbs,on gas,346heads .700hp.
i just want to learn more of your combo.if ya want to pm me OK.
thanks.

 

thanks for all the input..........lots to learn..not sure how much boost...havent tried it yet