Tafc Brakes

Discussion in 'PSI Superchargers Tech Questions' started by M Tigges, Dec 9, 2005.

  1. M Tigges

    M Tigges TAFC

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    Has anyone out there really worked at making there car stop better?

    Do carbon front brakes work that good?
    maybe dual piston front calipars?..(bigger front brakes?)

    Sooner or later your going in the sand, just like your first time for everything else in this sport!
    We have strange front and rear caliparswith steel rotors now (it sucks)

    what setups do you use?
    what master?
    whose brakes?
     
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    Last edited: Dec 9, 2005
  2. Gary Mangiafico

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    Brakes

    Call Roger Lamb at Lamb Componenets. Use his parts and set them up exactly like he recommends and you will not have any problems.
    (He is not the cheapest, but his stuff works as advertized)


    He will walk thru all you comonents like Line dia, brake handle ratio's.

    Mark, once we followed his advise exactly, we been able to stop the car on short shut down areas with NO chutes.

    Call me if you have any questions

    Gary Mangiafico
     
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  3. M Tigges

    M Tigges TAFC

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    Gary do you guys have carbon front brakes? that seems like the way to go.
     
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  4. Nathan Sitko - 625 TAD/TAFC

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    Mark we have Steel all the way around - Willwood calipers on the back, Stange on the front and I haven't encountered any problems. We bought them all brand new 2 years ago, so maybe that has something to do with it. I've heard some horror stories about carbon brakes when they're cold and such...
     
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  5. M Tigges

    M Tigges TAFC

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    the brakes work great i just think it should stop without chutes in an emergency, ive seen top fuelers stop from 300 plus so it should as far as i'm concered and they have two four piston calipars on the rear!
     
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  6. NervesofSteel

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    Hi Mark,
    I've used both carbon and steel brakes. Both are Strange Engineering setups. One car had carbon all the way around, the other, steel. The carbon brakes have to be heated up to work efficiently whereas the steel, not. I actually found the steel setup a bit more more efficient with less effort, but that also depends on rotor diameter, caliper piston size and how many, piston size in the master cyl. and leverage factor with the brake lever. If I was racing at alot of tracks with shorter shutdown areas I'd tend to go with the steel brakes, a little more weight and rotating mass than the carbon setup but no worries about having to heat the carbon ones up or have them get grabby on you and locking a wheel up.

    Mike Etter
     
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  7. Gary Mangiafico

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    BRakes

    Mark,

    We use Carbon Rear Brakes and Steel Front Brakes

    Danny has NO problem stopping the car on short shut downs with NO Chutes. He also has no problem staging the car.

    Hope this Helps

    Gary
     
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  8. tc1216

    tc1216 Member

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    there are a few things you should check first. some of this stuff sounds stupid, but i`ve worked on several funny cars, all with some sort of brake problems. 1) make sure the master cylinder is plumbed correctly, the front of the master has an internal pressure relief that limits front brake pressure to about 400 psi no matter how hard you pull or push on the handle. 2) you must have between 1000-1100 psi at the rear calipers, when the driver pulls or pushes the handle. Because all drivers have different arm strength, you will most likely have to increase the ratio to acheive this pressure range. 3) I have found Strange full metallic funny car rear brake pads to work very well. Like I said, some of this sounds stupid, but one funny car had the master plumbed backwards, it had too little handle ratio, and had green organic pads. hope some of this helps tc.
     
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