O-ring question

Hi all!
i have this problem with the o-rings on my old BAE fuel heads:
they were equipped with .050 wire that was damaged so we decided to change them.
they were glued,so we wanted to have the grooves machined for .062,but the machine shop noticed upon closer inspection that the current groove width was far from ok to do a good job with his cnc machine,so he advised me to glue some .050 wire back in it.
would you have some advice on what product to use to hold the wire in the grooves?
i thank you in advance
cyril

 

Hoops..........

 

What are hoops ?

 

now i know what hoops are:
but i do not see how they would solve my problem,since it all comes down to holding the wire(or the hoop)in the groove prior to installation of the head on the block...

 

Super glue. It just needs to stay into the head until you bolt it on and it can crush the gasket into the recess in the sleeve. It’s important to have the sleeve a few thou. “Proud” of the aluminum deck. If not the aluminum can grow with heat, push the head up and break or weaken the seal at the liner.

 

Thanks a lot for infos!!

 

Not super relevant but thought I’d share. I tried some SCE Vulcan cut ring gaskets. Google it if you’ve never seen them. I was running dry so didn’t need the crappy graphite part of the gasket. So I just super glued the cut rings to the block. I was chasing some major gremlins at the time. It held together for a few passes before it knocked the blower off again. Before I pulled it down, I checked, and the “head gasket” was still sealed up. However, on tear down and inspection it had obviously been detonating a few cylinders and momentarily lifting the heads to the point that it actually made the cut rings bigger and they cut new grooves into the head and resealed

 

Thought I’d mention, I was worried about the super glue holding the rings up during assembly and then squishing out while running. So I tried to wait until the glue was just tacky enough to hold but might still move a little before dropping the head onto the block (keep in mind this was in the car so it had to be pretty tacky to hold). I also figured I could heat cycle once and retorque while hot to squish out any film that might be there. I used this setup a couple times and it seemed like it didn’t really matter if I just let it dry and sent it without a retorque

 

When they machine for the Hoops theHoops press in and don’t need anything to hold them

 

I've always just super glued. Normally do it the night before I set the heads on if I am not in a big hurry. No issues