Clutch Plate RS hardness

Hello what would be the best RS hardness for clutch plates for blown (outlaw screw blower).

And what is the best Matarial 5135 / 5191/ 29N013 or ??

Also is there a better RS and Material that work better with steel versus bronze floaters

Thanks MTC

 

5191 Typically provides the best tuneability. I would run the hardness Somewhere in the upper 60's (65-69) depending on how hard you are on the clutch. If you're slipping the hell out of it, harder RS discs usually live though brutal application a little better. Just depends on the tune-up. Outside of Top Fuel, 62-72RS doesn't show a whole lot of difference in wear. Only exceptions I've seen are short shifting the 1-2 shift in screw or turbo cars, softer discs usually get chewed up or chunk in screw blown cars when beat up pretty good, probably just from the extra RPM and how lean they tend to get when the motor lugs at a given RPM for a while.

5135 is what truck/tractor pullers typically use, they don't wear too easily and are really aggressive by comparison to 5191. Some people have used them successfully in a drag clutch package, but I typically had only seen them work in lower power 5-speed applications or geared for stump pulling 3-speed roots blown cars that usually lock up quickly in low gear. 5135 also works if you're slightly under-sized on the clutch for the application or can't hang the weight you need and still have the driver hold the air-gap.

There's no perfect combo, what works for one won't always work for another. Typically if you're just wanting to re-zero the clutch after a run and not pull it apart, 5191 with Bronze floaters works pretty well. Just takes time and runs to learn how the clutch behavior changes from run to run between full service. Bronze just typically stays flatter longer, so we'd like to think its more consistent. You might get a few more laps out of bronze before it tries to get goofy. But the clutch pack wears into itself, so even steel stays relatively consistent when just zeroing the clutch between laps. What really matters is that you're consistent in how you work between rounds and when servicing.

One thing I will caution you on is when you do tear it apart, make sure everything has been surfaced flat before you reassemble. If you reassemble without surfacing plates/floaters, you usually get two really good burnouts, one intentional and one after the ambers come down.

 

Thank Justin could i call you some time ?, i have spoken to you
when you were at ACE.