Crank hub

I'm trying to get the crank hub off but no luck . It is a titanium hub with two keyways and the copper bushing on the end to prevent galling it is not splined. I've used a puller and it doesn't even budge. Is there another way or am i doing something wrong? How hard can you pull before something breaks?

 

I had til problem on my old Chevy no matter what i tried the crank hub would weld it self to the crank. I Had to build a special hydralic tool to get it of.

 

hub

the worst i've heard is spinning the whole crank and timing cover in a lathe.
I've cut a iron one off a chevy with a cutting wheel.
You might try getting the hub really hot.
I think RCD makes a massive puller.

 

You can take a look at the keys in the bore to see if it has sheared the keys --- but you're still going to have to get a strong puller on it and get mid-evil on it---

RCD does make a stout puller ---

After getting it off you need to figure out why you are detonating your engine to this point ------

 

Both keyways came out easily and were not sheared off. This is a bae motor with a bryant crank and rcd hub, i just ordered a rcd puller, hope it works. Thanks for the help

 

For your wish list. These kick butt.
http://webster-industries.com/Damper_Puller.html

http://www.abs-products.com/hydraulic-tools/dampner-remover.shtml

I have the ABS version but the webster is on my list to replace it.

 

I believe it was 350 lbs

 

crank pully

this is going to sound crazy but it works .after you get it off when you put it back on put locktight on the crank snout and inside of the pully ,it will keep it from galling and it will be easer to take off,

 

Odds are the hub is junk now
Take a grinder with a cut off wheel and cut the flange off it .
Cut the flange low enough that you can pull the timing cover off over the hub.
When you get the crank out , grind the hub at the keys and split it like a clam shell.
I have been thru this and I went to a splined set up and the last time I took the hub off , it slid off the snout wit two fingers!

 

The OP stated in post #6 he removed it --no problems

 

don't know how he did it but he said keyways came off no problem?

 

Actually his post says he got the keys out , and he ordered a puller.
Tells me it is galled on ???

 

Seems like if the keys came out with the hub still on, the key stock was not big enough. May have been allowing movement.

 

I heard this before, do you use red lock tight or blue? is this to make sure nothing moves? Been working on blown alcohol for 20 years, been lucky I guess , took one apart recently that galled the hub to the crank (my first) will lock tight stop this?

 

I use red. Someday I'll go to a splined setup to get rid of this issue.

 

I have heard of the spline twisting, then try to get that off, locktite is the best cure, RED.

 

Got the hub off with the RCD puller. (that puller is awesome). The hub had cracked in one of the keyways all the way thru. I'm having the crank machined and magnafluxed.