PSI Blower Distribution Plates

Does anyone know of anyone selling redistribution plates that are being used by some teams between the intake and blower to help even out the cylinder EGTs? Most screw blowers have some cylinders cold at the launch and several have mentioned using a plate under the blower to help redistribute the fuel/air. I have a couple of cylinders that go cold and stay cold until about 1.2 to 1.3 seconds into the run-THANKs in advance for any help or contacts-Jim

 

PSI Superchargers has their own. www.psisuperchargers.com

 

good luck with psi they will hit your credit card several times and say they made a mistake and give you a credit.

 

I have an original model that hasn't been modified...but it will only fit the TAK Straps...

Interested?

 

plate

The plate probably wont help. Neither will poppet pressures. With the plate You can disconnect #2 port nozzle on a BAE at idle and rev it up and it will still blow raw fuel from that pipe.
Everybody has to do this once before they believe how poor the distribution is.
DMPE and Grimes blow the plate and the manifold into a huge open hole.
Just about everybody has cold cylinders at launch because the psi builds a pond of fuel in the front. Thats why guys were leaning out the hats and burning rotors.
Mine starts building heat within 1 second.
As long as they are cold cosistently throw timing at it to make it go.

Tons of hours have been spent on this issue and a px guy told me they finally gave up and installed the stock psi plate and just tuned around the cold cylinders.

 

Message to Scott in your Inbox-THANK YOU!

THANK YOU! Jim

 

????? I've only ever had positive dealings with PSI, one of the last companies that I have to ever worry about.

They do have this weird policy whereby they "charge more" for a credit card purchase, but that has to do with the fees they incur (no different than my business).

Fair company to deal with always, but not the most accessible at times.

 

So atomize/distribute the fuel well upstream of the rotors and this problem goes away ??...........

 

I have manifold plate. Kevin Cantrell 602-918-4945

 

I fully agree with this. Way too many negatives to overcome the "possible" positives. Ive seen some awesome delamination of rotors due to this amongst other things.

We run the Grimes-modified manifold with the corresponding plate. Our car idles clean as a whistle and can sit idling for a while and we dont have any issues with cylinder temp or cylinder irregualrity. Weve been hung out for a while before and it didnt effect the car at all. Being a converter car I worried about the motor "loading up" like ive seen a ton of cars do and it effected the launch. But we have never had that issue. Fuel system itself can be a problem that is overlooked IMO.

Also, make sure the ignition is all good and up to par. A weak mag can really give you fits.

 

How does the Grimes setup compare to the PSI plate? Is it just one big opening and an open manifold below?

 

If you lean out the hat fuel, and rotor delamination/destruction then happens, then what exactly is causing this damage and destruction????


Is it the fact that there's not enough cooling (heat removed from the air) and the rotors are swelling and rubbing as a result? Or, is it that there's not enough liquid touching the rotors in order to conduct heat away from them (heat removed from the rotors)? Or, is it that there's not enough liquid touching the rotors so a to provide a thin lubricating film? Or, is it a combination of all of these?


So, if given the option, is it best to try to inject the hat fuel "not" against the rotors and instead into the free air, or, is it better to intentionally put all or part of the fuel right onto the rotors directly?


Here are three divergent examples to help paint pictures around my questions above. Hopefully they spark debate.....


Example #1. PSI provides 4 case holes for 4 MFI fan nozzles. If you screw those nozzles in place, and tilt them rearward a bit, they mainly impinge fuel on the rotors. Not a whole lot of time for the fuel to evaporate and cool the air. The primary function would seem to be liquid conduction of heat out of the rotors, and lubrication, and maybe a bit of sealing?


Example #2. Kinsler makes a slick EFI injector holder for under the PSI hat, that positions up to 16 EFI injectors in a well distributed manner, all around the under hat opening, tilted roughly 30 degrees down plane from horizontal toward the rotors. The well atomized EFI plumes have a decent chance of at least partly vaporizing in free air, while a decent amount of the fuel (previously well atomized and distributed) also impinges directly on the rotors. The Kinsler holder would appear to provide a bit of everything mentioned above.


Example #3. Flip the Kinsler EFI injector holder upside down so that the EFI plumes are now well distributed but pointing 30 degrees up and away from the rotors, so that the first route of travel of the fuel is up into the free air volume of the hat above the rotors. This would appear to greatly reduce, if not eliminate, any direct liquid fuel contact with the rotors.


Now........ which of these approaches would best minimize fuel puddling and distribution problems AFTER the screw, without at the same time causing unwanted hot manifold temps and/or rotor destruction?


I honestly don't know the answer, but it is something that I have been really wondering about for some time now. I'd love to hear any thoughts that people have one way or the other.


In my case, my engine is ECU controlled, not MFI. I can control just about any hat fuel delivery scheme or hardware that I can conceive of. I'm not limited to just 4 MFI's stuck in 4 holes. So in a perfect world, given a clean drawing board, what's the better mousetrap? Or, is there even a better mousetrap than just the 4 case nozzles/holes?


If there's enough interest we could make this its own new discussion topic outside of the original post?


Thanks for the time and space and discussions.

 

plate

I can't afford science projects but i dug into this one because I was trying to get a chevy to work with a screw and air throttle. The manifold was homemade and it intermittently dropped front cylinders and the 60ft would die.
I was warned that it was a waste of time, but I tried moving nozzles all over the hat and pointing them different directions. No effect.
I leaned the BV until the rear outlet got warm and EGT was almost 1000 at idle.No effect.
I drilled .250 holes in suspected puddling areas of the psi plate. It has an effect but I never tried the air throttle again.
The grimes setup is just a total disregard for the weird psi swirling BS under the blower.It's a huge hole that has extra room around the outlet.
DMPE doesn't believe in the swirling BS either and Darren has trick spraybars for the hat for atomization.
I was also told that grinding or RTV correctly applied to the psi case will fix puddling.
I think there is room for improvement but I was done with science projects when we bought a BAE. I got a proven fuel system that uses the stock psi plate, idles terrible and blows raw fuel everywhere just like most PX cars. With an airthrottle my cold cylinders recover consistently so im calling it good.

 

Thanks. A lot of good nuggets of info.......

When you talk about Darren's trick spray bar, do you mean the passages that guide fuel down into the spine area of his stealth stuffer plate (down between the rotor roots)? I'm familiar with that deal. That would be basically all about lubrication and conductive cooling. I'd like to hear more if anyone has tried this deal with good/bad success.

Thanks for the further advise on the Grimes/DMPE plates. Kind of matches with my own thoughts, "provided" that the fuel isn't just poured in under the hat.