GRP L19 Rod Bolt Stretch Process

Discussion in 'PSI Superchargers Tech Questions' started by loenes, Aug 13, 2013.

  1. loenes

    loenes New Member

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    I have a Hemi with GRP Rods: Question is what process do you use to tighten your rod bolts?

    I use a torque wrench (changing the settings to achieve the .0075 stretch needed for my L-19 bolts)

    I have been told that a torque/angle process also works? Torque to 30lbs then add 75 degrees of rotation.

    Any thoughts?
     
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  2. Comax Racing

    Comax Racing Member

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    I'll take a shot at this as no one has yet. My rods came with L-19's from GRP. They said stretch the first few bolts properly, then if you want to speed things up use a torque wrench to match the stretched torque. Just go a little less at the start. If its off, back the bolt all the way off and go up all in one pull. Biggest thing is to check all the fasteners with the stretch guage at the end, don't rely on the torque wrench.

    I guess a torque angle guage would work but just run you stretch guage over all the bolts again. Biggest thing was torque had to be brought up all in one shot, and wear gloves when handling the bolts. Never let them touch bare hands oiled or not.

    Corey
     
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  3. Will Hanna

    Will Hanna We put the 'inside' in Top Alcohol
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    stretch process

    Here's what I do:

    Every bolt is going to be a little different in length, so you can't just zero the gauge and go.

    I lube the bolt with motor oil on the threads and under the bolt head.

    I then use an impact to very slowly and lightly run the bolt until it stops. I mean no clicks, just where it stops. Do that to both, then I measure the bolts and write them down. It may be zero on the gauge, it may be -.002, or +.003, but I write that down as a starting point, and mark whether it's on the number side or inner (or however you want to name it, just stay consistent). I then torque both half way then torque all the way. I know a perfect torque is one pull, but that isn't real world if the motor is in the car. Not to mention if you reach desired stretch, it doesn't matter. New rods/bolts will require more torque than older. Record stretch. If .0075 is the mark, I will accept anything between .007 and .008. So if it was -.002 pre torque and .006 or just a tick under .006 after torque, you're around .008 so I would call that good.

    If it is not enough stretch or too much, back both off and adjust accordingly. Record final stretch and torque value.

    I have had bolts that I could not get to stretch even with some pretty high torque values. I called Brian at GRP and his instructions were the stretch was the most important thing. If a bolt won't stretch, it's most likely a friction issue. Per his instructions I put some assembly lube on the bolt (threads and head) (instead of engine oil) and was able to get the desired stretch with a reasonable torque number.

    This is rather cumbersome to do between rounds. The outer bolt is reasonably easy to get to and stretch with the gauge. Usually at night I like to stretch all the rod bolts if time permits.
     
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  4. underby6

    underby6 Active Member

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    Did this and to me was a huge waste of time - switched to MGP and 20+ runs with no issues on each set. I have paid for them all, MGP is by far the best rod out there.

    Brandon Booher
    NHRA TAD #323
    Torque MGMT. - Owner
     
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  5. Will Hanna

    Will Hanna We put the 'inside' in Top Alcohol
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    stretch

    stretch has nothing to do with rod manufacturer and everything to do with the torque wrench, lubrication and the process.

    stretching the bolts is a huge pain in the ass, but if you want to know its 'right' the only way to know is stretching.

    a nasa study a few years back showed a torque wrench was only marginally more accurate than a trained mechanic without a torque wrench.

    you have to have the proper stretch to achieve the proper clamping load. the bigger the stroke and higher the rpm, the more critical this is.
     
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  6. TWD

    TWD Blown alky

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    We're ignorant / lazy or both and we still get away with just using the torque wrench, but I would have to agree that stretch is the only true measure of clamping force.

    I was wondering though if anybody is using ultrasonic bolt stress tools. They seem to be used in industry for pipe flange bolts and coupling bolts and I can see it being an easy method for rod bolts as well.

    Something like: http://www.norbar.com/Products/tabid/54/mid/1202/view/category/category_multid/8/Default.aspx

    Any thoughts / experience?
     
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  7. jody stroud

    jody stroud ZOMBIE Top Dragster

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    I agree with Brandon on this .... It may be better but all I have ever used is arp's ultra Tourque lube and a very high quality non click type digital wrench, never had problem
     
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  8. tonyeben

    tonyeben New Member

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    Torque Angle Method

    Leon,
    For teams that are checking the rod bearings every run, as most Top Alcohol teams do when they are running hard, torquing the rod bolts to a set number with the same torque wrench and bolt lube works quite well. However, for teams who go multiple runs between checking the rod bearings, a more accurate method of verifying bolt stretch is extremely important. The best way is to use a rod bolt stretch gauge, zeroing it for each rod bolt. This is a difficult, time consuming process under the car with oil dripping on you, made even worse if you are checking bearings between runs when it is hot. We spent many hours on the bench with a rod vise, stretch gauge, and torque wrench to come up with a torque angle method that produces the desired .0075" +/- .0005" of stretch with L-19 bolts. By torquing the bolts to 30 ft-lbs, then an additional 75 degrees, we are able to reproduce extremely repeatable results (this is with our torque wrench, other wrenches should be verified for repeatable results). We use ARP's bolt lube, but we have also tested with other lubes. Different lubes do make a difference, but not as much as they do when torquing to a preset number. Torque is a measurement of friction, so lubes have a significant impact on your results. Angle is a given number of degrees of rotation, which will produce more consistent results due to the thread pitch being a mechanical factor, and not a measure of friction. This method takes a bit longer than simply torquing the rod bolts, but is much quicker than trying to measure bolt stretch laying under the car. Nor rod on the planet will live with one or more bolts laying in the pan. Hope this helps
     
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  9. loenes

    loenes New Member

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    Thank You!

    Thanks to everyone for your input!!

    Leon
     
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  10. sune

    sune Member

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    I do bottom end on Stig Neergaards top fueler here in europe. In the shop and at the races.

    We only use a torque wrench and engine oil. nothing else. We snug up the bolts with the air impact set on low and then use the torque wrench. At the start of all events we check all our torque wrenches, on the digital tester in the trailer.

    One thing tho. The rods and rod bolts in a top fuel don't see the kind of rpm they do in a TAD or TAFC deal. I believe that the rods in a fuel car sees much more compression load, due to the power of nitro and the crazy advance needed to run on these engines. The rods in a TAFC and a TAD see much higher rpm which i believe puts a different kind of stress on the rods and bolts. I have no proof of this, it is just me thinking.

    I do it excatly the same way on my own Top sportsman style door car. It has a TFX hemi. I have had plenty of problems with the car but none caused by loose or too thight rod bolts.
     
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  11. Mark Leigh

    Mark Leigh Member

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    So when you guys check your rod bearings in the pits , what do you do with a warm rod when you retorque them ?
     
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