Clutches

Hi guys,never posted on here before,
Can any one tell me the advantages of a titianium clutch over a alloy clutch other than weight,do they warp less or last longer etc,also any thoughts on the auto meter data loggers,thanks in advance
Karl

 

Hi Karl

 

Hello mate,fancy meeting you here lol

 

Thanks for the input will,we have just purchased a car that you tuned (Scott Moores tad),

 

I have mixed feelings on the complete Ti units. I would definitely run a Ti hat and donut if you plan on keeping the car for any amount of time. The Ti hat and donut will be the same shape at 300 runs as it was at run 1. I have run Ti Clutchs back to back on the same day with aluminum ones (different manufactures) and they both behaved the same. I would also recommend a large stand, but that is just my personal preference. The fastest blown dragster uses a small stand, so use your own judgement on that one. The thing that I think about from time to time is the fact that aluminum transfers heat really well and Ti not so much. If you are running an aluminum flywheel it is going to transfer more heat into your crank, oil, etc. then a Ti unit. But does the Ti flywheel facing warp more because it holds in more heat? Which one is more of an issue? I can't answer that, but may be someone here can? On a side note some organizations require all Ti units.

 

Ti hat and donut are the way to go in one of these things. Aluminum is a little lighter, but I believe the Ti is more consistent season to season and lap to lap for that matter.

As for the Ti vs. Aluminum flywheel, if you get held in the lights, I would rather have a Ti than an aluminum. Problem with Aluminum is it GROWS considerably more than Ti with heat. Aluminum flywheels will typically work just fine for a season or two depending on how much and how hard you run, but you'll be replacing it often to stave off work hardening and runout.

As for what sinks to the crank better or worse, they all do.. but conversely the crank also sinks back into the flywheel anytime the motor is generating heat, which is why I would prefer the Ti over the aluminum in a hang out situation. As for the Ti warping the steel worse than the aluminum, I've never seen that be the case. The steel has it's own thermoconductive properties and so does the Ti and Aluminum. The way Crower/Molinari clutches are typically designed, the steel can shrink or grow independently from the base flywheel material, which is why we typically don't have to grind it every lap.

Also, if you're turning 9500+ on a regular basis, I would also recommend using a non-scalloped/round flywheel in Crower/Molinari form. Much stronger at the stud base bolt circle and around the OD of the flywheel. Helps save that rear main.

 

Thanks for all the help guys,we currently use a 3disc 10inch big stand crower in our funny car this clutch is getting old now and we are thinking of upgrading to put in the new car(ex tmd),we don't hit it that hard currently as we are bracket racing,we are running high 6's at present but still learning,just out if Interest what is people's opinion on how thin u can take the friction discs down too before chucking away,thanks once again for all the replies
Karl