How much Timing to pull??

I am starting to line out my TFX/Veney C rotor convertor car and was wondering how much timing to pull off the line, my tuner guy said 20 out and 24 total just to "Get it down the track", here is video. I think that is way too much timing out.
Ultimately we will be running 27 to 30 total with MSD 10, power grid, and crank trigger.

A little rich on the idle circuit in the first video....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J3z9K4oV0fY&feature=c4-overview&list=UUlkHu3raTDSNMZGzmaWy4RQ


Leaned the idle down a bit, crisper but dies on t-brake release.... Looks like everything is ok.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4lqgNUGZELg&feature=youtu.be

TIA
Scott

 

hmmm

That was different..lol.
I hope you have a flowed fuel system. If you have a flowmeter make sure the gpm at idle is ok.
The msd 10 is suspect with a screw. Not many people can afford a C rotor and then put anything but a promag on it.
Screw cars cool cylinders when they leave and are on the brake. if you are rich with retarded timing and weak spark who knows.
You can set it to pull timing on the brake or dump it when realeased. It might stay a little cleaner if you have timing in it while on the brake.

I set my egt to idle around 1000 deg and it makes 600 avg on the brake.
You need to have your dist./mag phased properly to handle a huge dump of timing. The rotor might be so far off that it flames out under load. The 44 with big cap is known for jumping the largest out of phase gap.

To answer the question it should go with 20 degrees out. I think you have other issues.

 

4.29 10 inch, M/T "bubba" 3190 34.5 stiff wall, 7.5psi, two step 4600, AFCO Big Guns rebound 6 from tight.

 

Thanks for the reply. I ran the 10 on my BBC/14-71 for a long time. I am going to recheck phasing and make some financial decisions on the 44. The idea when to pull timing is a good one, I'll change that for sure. This is a ground up 25.2 build done in a two car garage and I have done everything including every bend and TIG weld, on a budget (sort of ;-0), not a high dollar car, but understand "pay to play". Flowed, yes.

MSD 10
Current Requirements: 25 Amps@8,000 RPM
RPM Range: 13,000 RPM with 14.4 Volts
Spark Duration: CD: 20° Crankshaft Rotation
Inductive: 20°-30° Crankshaft Rotation
Energy Output Max: 700 mJ/Spark
Weight and Size: 4.75 lbs, 9"Lx4"Wx5.75"H
Voltage Output Max: Primary: 630 Volts
Secondary: 60,000 Volts plus

 

I'd def. find a way to get a Pro Mag 20 or 44 into your program, preferably the 44. 20 seems like quite a bit to whack out of it, but as Mike stated there are many variable to consider. The biggest one would be to look at the shaft and g-meter to determine if in fact you need to be that hard on it. Taking that much out and ramping it back in with a realistic rate of gain would be important. Most shove it all back in within 1s or so, at that rate of gain you are making the thing so mean you'd be better off not taking as much initially - shrinking the hill it has to climb to get back to base.

Brandon Booher
NHRA TAD #323
Torque MGMT. - Owner

 

Thanks Brandon.
Everything is pointing to my ignition. Point me in a direction for good prices? How long do coils last? I am totally new to mag....

Thanks again.
Scott

 

From the video it looks like a lot of noise and no acceleration. Is it on the limiter during the first 60 feet? Almost seems like it's blowing through the converter. Who's converter you running?

 

It's a Bradco 2 piece billet, specifically for this application, Browell, Ried case, two speed 400....... Crap I am throwing money at this thing like crazy, I hope this isn't bad tooo

 

I am hoping it is the ignition not lighting things. I have plenty of fuel and it is getting out of the tank to somewhere......